According to Mark_C on rr.net L322 section, all the immobiliser does is prevent the key turning & starter engaging. If that's true then sort the fuelling first !! https://www.rangerovers.net/posts/2209790/ But other threads say it stops cranking as well ??

BTW the P1602 code is a standard OBD code. It means "Immobilizer/ECM Communication Error". Usually failed EEPROM on the ECU, or the key chip is bad, but could also be wiring fault.
 
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backinblack said:
You need to check the fuel pressure to at least rule it out. Diags can read them.
Click to expand...
The diag mechanic told me there was an error from the fuel pressure sensor, but that’s all he told me, I messaged him today asking to give me the code or more info and he said he didn’t save it or whatever and can’t give me any more info, so that’s all I’m going on.
 
Crankington said:
The diag mechanic told me there was an error from the fuel pressure sensor, but that’s all he told me, I messaged him today asking to give me the code or more info and he said he didn’t save it or whatever and can’t give me any more info, so that’s all I’m going on.
Click to expand...
You don't need the code you need to check what the pressures actually are
 
there are lots of reasons why you cant register fuel pressure, the imoberliser isnt one of them, there are 3 pumps in the system any of which could cause no fuel pressure then there is the fuel pressure relief (mechanical and not monitored) and faulty injectors, the fact you have a code from the pressure sensor just tells you theres no pressure, go back to basics start with a leak off test then check the relief valve
 
I’d get your own and you’ll soon learn how to use it with us. No point going to people that wil read it but not give a definite answer or actually fix it. If you had one (Or a lend) you could check yourself the pump outputs, voltage all sorts of info to pin it down
 
badfluffy said:
he needs the right software for that, besides hes already been told theres no pressure, just hasnt diagnosed were its going, becoming a shot gun repair ( unnessesery ecu mod )
Click to expand...
Yes he needs diags, my relatively cheap Foxwell does it
 
i went through this last year low pressure and no start was about to change the high pressure relief valve at the back of the high pressure pump when a diesel engineer told me to do a leak off test, one faulty injector later runs as sweat as, you wont get the high pressure if its leaking back, the test is a lot easyer than trying to change the relief valve or the pump and cheaper
 
My issue was the HP pump and relief valve and yes it was a PITA to change. I refurbed mine which failed and then had to get a recon one so changed it twice.

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Hi guys
I'm late to the party, but an interested bystander. If the immobilisor was the issue, I am sure the engine would not crank (see workshop quote below) so fuelling must be the issue as others have remarked. Your own diagnostic tool will become indispensible if you intend to keep hold of the car for any length of time.
Good luck with the process, please keep us updated on progress. I have a 2003 Td6 which I am constantly battling with, so your current issues will be relevant to many others and are all part of another school day :)
Cheers Mark

"Immobilisation ECU
The immobilisation ECU is installed on the driver's side of the gear selector assembly, underneath the centre console.
When it detects a valid transponder/ignition key in the ignition switch and is receiving a release signal from the steering
lock ECU, the immobilisation ECU sends a release signal to the ECM and energises the starter solenoid when the
ignition switch is turned to crank. The release signal to the ECM is a further rolling coded synchronised in the

immobilisation ECU and the ECM. If either the ECM or the immobilisation ECU are replaced they have to be re-
synchronised using TestBook/T4."
 
Hello all, it’s a big day… please see the video attached, a friend of mine, a Land Rover fanatic came along, with the car having sat for so long he said, ok, first things first, let’s drain the fuel and get some fresh stuff in there… so , we did (I didn’t suspect it would help but) …. After a few tries starting , no joy, then one more for luck and BAM! Ticked over like a beauty… starts on the button now, even drove it around the block … so so happy, I don’t know if that was the initial thing, or one of the things added up with the bits and pieces I fixed like the grounding wires etc,, anyway. Next up, got to sort out the suspension, the back lifted itself very very slowly after starting; the front however did not, so the list continues… but regardless, it runs!!! Thanks for all the advice along the way
 
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