Tried searching, but couldn't find anything.
I reached out to Bell to get a recon VCU for my '00 1.8 Freelander. They don't seem to do overseas business. As I am in the EU, this is an issue. Does anyone know of a reputable dealer for properly reconed VCUs or IRDs in the EU?
 
Tried searching, but couldn't find anything.
I reached out to Bell to get a recon VCU for my '00 1.8 Freelander. They don't seem to do overseas business. As I am in the EU, this is an issue. Does anyone know of a reputable dealer for properly reconed VCUs or IRDs in the EU?
I found nobody alas. I looked in France, Netherlands, Germany, Austria or Hungary last year. It seems that new is the only option. I can get GKN new and in some ways, this would be the only solution I would trust. Expensive, yes. Second hand option is not worth the risk in my opinion.
 
Yeah, there's a lot of sellers on eBay, but I just can't get over the fear of getting scammed. I just took the prop off and am considering just reconditioning myself. I have all summer to slowly get the liquids out and in.
 
Tried searching, but couldn't find anything.
I reached out to Bell to get a recon VCU for my '00 1.8 Freelander. They don't seem to do overseas business. As I am in the EU, this is an issue. Does anyone know of a reputable dealer for properly reconed VCUs or IRDs in the EU?
If you have a drill, a tap and can get the fluid (which I think is common to VW and some Range Rovers) then doing it yourself will save you a fortune. Have a look through some of the DIY VCU threads for tips.
If you're really adventurous then cut it open, clean all the metal disks and weld it back together but this is a bigger job.
 
If you have a drill, a tap and can get the fluid (which I think is common to VW and some Range Rovers) then doing it yourself will save you a fortune. Have a look through some of the DIY VCU threads for tips.
If you're really adventurous then cut it open, clean all the metal disks and weld it back together but this is a bigger job.
Your guide to reconditioning actually gave me hope that I could DIY it. I'm still getting in touch with Sue, as I suspect the IRD is also on the way out. Rebuilding the IRD will be too much of a challenge, yet. I'm planning on checking the IRDs oil next week, as soon as I have replacement oil.
 
Your guide to reconditioning actually gave me hope that I could DIY it. I'm still getting in touch with Sue, as I suspect the IRD is also on the way out. Rebuilding the IRD will be too much of a challenge, yet. I'm planning on checking the IRDs oil next week, as soon as I have replacement oil.
Think I'd rather rebuild an IRD than a VCU.

You know where you are with gears and bearings. I'd get a rebuild (bearing) kit, remove it, give 'em to a shop to pull and push the bearings then refit it.

As for rebuilding a VCU, cutting it open will let you see and clean everything... but cut open and weld back together... yeh, nah, leave that to them's that know they can weld. Getting the gunk out of a couple of drill holes sounds easy, but the clogged up stodge has other ideas.
 
Think I'd rather rebuild an IRD than a VCU.

You know where you are with gears and bearings. I'd get a rebuild (bearing) kit, remove it, give 'em to a shop to pull and push the bearings then refit it.

As for rebuilding a VCU, cutting it open will let you see and clean everything... but cut open and weld back together... yeh, nah, leave that to them's that know they can weld. Getting the gunk out of a couple of drill holes sounds easy, but the clogged up stodge has other ideas.
Yeah, if I do recon the VCU it's definitely the drill and drain method. I'm in no way confident I could stick weld it back together.
I hadn't considered having a shop do the fitting of bearings. That was my main concern as I don't have a press and anything being slightly out of place sounds like a disaster. I haven't noticed any leakage from the IRD, but considering that I still have some shuddering (with the prop off) I'm guessing some damage has been done. I'm just hoping I won't find a mess of teeth and slivers spilling around inside it.

Edit. BTW, I really appreciate this forum. The amount of work you've done are a godsend for new landy owners like myself.
 
That is how I rebuilt my IRD.

I wasn't even keen to actually remove it, but I have an inspection pit in my garage which made the job so much easier.

Having done it and put it back together again, I'm much more confident to take on other jobs needing doing.

You just need as much, safe, clearance under the car as possible, a 1/2 decent socket set and a selection of extension bars - some of the nuts/bolts I was undoing from the wheel arch.

However, if the prop is off and its not running smoothly, or there abouts, I'd be wary about other damage. A bearing kit rebuild is only as good as the gears you are reusing. The crown and pinion gears can be to far damaged and need replacing. Once that happens, I recon it is more economic (cheaper) to simply buy a recon IRD - or buy a used 12 in better condition and rebuild that.

With mine the pinion bearings were totally shot. If I pushed it 10 foot there was an almighty bang as the gears slipped. But with the props removed, it drove almost normally, a slight tick only.

I think you need to drain the oil in your IRD and see what comes out. Crack the fill nut first with a good fitting hex socket as they are made of cheese. Have a look at what comes out, the oil will probably look metalicy with the ground bearings suspended in it, but hope not to see any chunks because that will be teeth from gears. You can also remove the rear pinion to examine the teeth on the end and the gear it mates to.

Also try and make sure the problems are not elsewhere, examine the drive shafts, rear diff etc.

If you rebuild the IRD, you will need the rear diff to be in good condition and not worn, and you will need a recon/recon yours VCU. Unless...

With mine I got the diff shop to remove the gear on the end of the pinion. So its 2WD, but all the gear was reinstalled back onto the car - and the rear wheels turn the prop. It has run perfectly since then, but obviously it can't go places it went before. Actually, its been to more remote, off road places since being 2WD! Up river beds miles from anywhere up in the mountains, until it won't go no further. Then I just jump in one of the other Landies until we are back to collect the 2WD Freelander :D But I do miss being able to go down the beach fishing.
 
Sue will definitely have VCU’s and IRD’s, along with diffs or whatever else you want to get if you choose to replace. They’ll all be either new parts or recon’d correctly, but like I say, they won’t be cheap.

They replaced my VCU and rear diff mounts, and a couple of driveshafts for me when I first got my F1.
They also just did some work for me on my F2.

But like @GrumpyGel says… you could have a crack at it yourself if you have a few tools and some confidence. Plenty of help on here.
 
 
So I just got the IRD oil checked. Drain plug had some sludge on it, but no pieces or slivers. After refilling I drove a few km to feel it. It felt smoother and I had less judder in the acceleration. I was driving without the sump guard and I suspect that might contribute.

Action plan is as follows:
- Drain and check rear diff
- Recon VCU
- Recheck the IRD in a month or two, if I notice any larger amounts of sludge, recon the IRD too. Depending on the shape of the gears, might get a "new" unit.
 

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