Right it's back in. It felt okay - no resistance. Here's a before picture of the woodruff key before I removed it: And here's after: Does that look okay to you? Just checking... Nearly forgot to put the brass nut on at 50NM before pulling...

It could be a setting up port for the factory 🤔

I wouldn't have thought so the system self bleeds with the in tank pump running.

Put nail varnish on em...😜

Could the bolt be a bleed nut?

Bet the engineers didn't know either. Just thought it looks nice. Rustic...

No idea for the other bits kiddo🤔

Right. I just went ahead & did it; 90NM for the threaded inspection bung, 25NM for the inspection bolt & 45NM for the delivery value holders. All went well. FYI: I didn't torque it up like this. I had the steel end nipped up in the vice not the...

Cheers! I think these are the correct RAVE torque settings for the FIP but I can't see the correct torque for the larger threaded bung.

I'd have to check RAVE next time I have the laptop running but it is less than you think. 90 nm sounds way too much. 25 nm sounds more likely. The high pressure pipes just need nipping up so they don't leak. Finger tips tight using a 17 mm...

How do! Three weeks later & not much done. Been waiting on a workbench to attach a vice properly which took the best part of two weeks while I also accidentally ordered just one metal advance gasket which meant waiting another week. I've got...

Cheers, Datatek. In that case I'll leave it.

Looks OK to me. Maybe it's been off before and it was a struggle to get the key back in the slot.

Right it's out... The woodruff key looks a little chewed on one corner as does the sprocket keyway. Will it be okay or need replacing? The car was running sweet as a nut besides the leak. Maby it's best just left as is...

Easy enough to lift & jiggle the sprocket into position to mate with the pump shaft.

The RAVE manual doesn't mention using an adapter sleeve.

I've got the specialty tool for removing the pump. But! Before I commit, how does the tool hold the sprocket central after the pumps tapered shaft is removed? There seems to be space around the tool within the tensioner sleeve, so that can be...

As far as chain stretch goes, my method is no different to the DTI method, it just allows a more accurate setting.

Theoretically but the last movement when timing has to be towards the engine and it is very fiddly so I wouldn't rely on it. Mine's timed up as per RAVE. My only concern with Datatek's method is the possibility of masking chain stretch too much...

PM me with an email address and I will send you the info.

Oh! Might I enquire what that is? 😃

My steel rule method of final timing the FIP is easier and more accurate than the DTI method in RAVE.

If you haven’t had the chains off or changed anything should be okay if it was good before. I’m fairly sure the woodruff key should be roughly vertical when locked at cyl1 tdc but not 110%, others memories may be fresher, but as you say it’s all...

Procedurally JLR doesn’t expect you to have a nanocom. It’s set to 1/1000mm or near as your patience eyes will allow taking into account wear on chains sprockets pump internals etc so it’s reset after any interference as a practice. It probably...

Yeah, I replaced the top one and it didn't do anything so it's probably the lower ring. It's leaking very badly now to the point it's leaving very large puddles where I regularly park it.

Are you sure it's not just the top cover leaking as was the case on both mine? Easy job in situe if that is the case. The fuel runs down making it appear that there are other joints leaking. No timing problems removing the top cover.

Thank you, Mark. That's reassuring advice. Does the fip removal tool fit the tensioner pivot sleeve exactly or will the sprocket be loose after fip removal? I was going to make grooves between the fip caps to align them exactly. Hopefully this...

Just to note, any difference in the position of the upper caps on the fip when replaced. If not exactly where you found it, it'll either not run and or idle very low or idle very fast, like very fast!! 😬

The only reference you really need is the fip body relationship to the casing it's bolts too. Logic says as you have noted it should all be in place on the engine side. The only thing that can move is the fip drive shaft. Don't forget as the...

I was going to do them all and just get it over with. I guarantee If I did the quick job it would come back to bit my backside anyway. Oh, right. If you Mark everything off and nothing moves why do they need to be re-timed?