I am happy to be corrected by other members more experienced than me as I am involved with the older end rather than the newer end. But it was my understanding that a 4 bolt box was a 4bolt box and they were the same from the very first defender...
I set mine up with a gauge, but I’m confident I could do it again without one. It’s like tightening nuts, bolts and screws etc. You just get a feel for what’s right.
I will admit to setting mine up by feel similar to others here and usually with the rear seal in place as I am adjusting rather than rebuilding. I have never removed the disc, even when setting up properly first couple of times I did it using a...
Do see no reason why disc has to be removed.
I learned how to do it using what was had at the time. A Land Rover Book manual and a spring scale of the fishing type.
If swivel pre load is out then thars your problem.
Note that the 3-4 kg pull recommended above is with the large ball housing seal removed.
It is just a trial and error job swapping shims until set right. Each time the pin bolts have to be...
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Remove the front wheels, remove the track rod and drag links and using a set of luggage scales check how much it takes to pull the hub lock to lock. What that reading should be seems to be completely different for each motor but you're looking...
I wouldn't assume. Also they're really bloody awkward to get right, even Landy mechanics and experienced owners need to play about with it just to get them correct (Christ knows how they done them in the factory). But if I were you I'd double...
See the black arrow head symbols in @Dorset_dumpling's diagram above ? They are the earth points and will be on the body, chassis or engine near the item they are earthing.
The leak to the exhaust is likely only to get worse over time. As a short term repair [ months] you could put in some rad sealant, like Kseal [other makes available] Advertised as permanent repair but in my experience that is not so and will give...
Thanks for your reply, I have been trying to restore this vehicle from last 5 years gradually. From last year or so I am trying to fix things on my own as I have a garage and tools now. One of the core plug were replaced my myself without...
The exhaust port seep could be just a tracking leak from a waterway through the head gasket to exhaust port but the only way to know is head off.
Can see other core plugs have been renewed and the heater transfer pipe has been replaced with...
You put all the shims IN ! ?
You may have to re do the swivel pin's/swivel bush's due to them having been set to loose.
Swivel pre load involves using the right number and thickness of shims to set the load [ a pull of approx 12fp at the end of...
I have said this before but back in the day I recon Land Rover had Man Mountain lean on the nut to do it up as first time removal has been the worst. The locking tab in pic may be non standard but one should be fitted.
The shaft splines and the arm hole are tapered so when nut done up it goes tight, real tight. [ if it was you who removed the arm you will know how tight they can be] The security lock tab is standard fit.
There is a master spline and if not...
You can get an aftermarket one for about £55 and has done its job several times on my rocky coast farm. After a meeting with a hidden boulder it was banana shaped but had done its job protecting things further back.
Don't know if this will help but a couple of years ago my 2a would spin over slowly only if it had a fully charged battery after checking connections and replacing starter solenoid I tried starter with good jump cables direct to a battery...
Still have one on mine. It is a standard Land Rover tubular steering guard to protect output arm and steering rod from knocks off road. Mine has a length of scaffold inside. [ met a rock or two in its time]
No issue with its removal for road use...