Looks pretty corroded, may be a pin hole leak. ANR2135

Since the fuse box has been changed you will need to do as mentioned above. Since the vehicle isn't stock it's hard to say what has been done. Operate a few things and check which one clicks, then label them or you will forget for next time.

Loose engine mountings moving throttle cable ?

This is very likely if there is no slack in the throttle cable.

See your getting closer ... information is coming ... Let me write your introduction email for you. // Hello Landyzone people. This is my first post. I have a TD5 landrover from 200X Here is a picture of it with a nice background as I am in...

Wheels are Limestone

PEARLS OF WISD Clingfilm worked!

Progress made - with a couple of minor mods! Now to see if the seat cover goes on OK! Thanks for the replies...

Yes, common enough. I did that very job for a mate some years ago. Also many have had drum brake rear axle replaced with later disc brake axle. Box of chocolates as Forrest said.:):)

You can't rely on the axles being correct for that year, my son's Ninety has a Disco 1 front axle I do believe.

My bet is the engine was replaced much later, Discovery only came on the market in 89 ish. Mine is a 1990 Ninety with 200 fitted in the naughty's. Last year recovered the center seat and had to use later type cover. It can be a bit of a fight to...

As above, yours is not Defender it is a Land Rover Ninety or One Ten. Your 200tdi engine is a later replacement for original engine. There are a number of differences with 83 to 86 trucks from later models.

If you can get the tank down to half, siphon and stick dip while you have sender out and then trial fit sender bending the arm to get gauge to read about right. Probably the best you will get.

Divide 250ft/pounds by your weight in pounds which will give to the length of bar in feet to stand on , if bar a bit longer just use tape to measure length where to stand Maybe do the final torque over the 210 when you know everything works and...

Well on would hope check would be done. I had similar issue with a tractor some years ago when adjustment was not done.

That is pretty much the way I have done it.

Possible there was no free play at clutch master cylinder rod, the result is like someone riding the clutch pedal all the time . Clutch does not fully engage and so slips some and will wear out quick.

Rocker cover center stud fixes into the rocker shaft block. If this the case then you need a replacement or a thread repair to sort.

I shall brake and clutch fluid the engine down today , after a drive tomorrow I shall add photos to this thread .

The lift pump runs off a cam on the cam shaft, nothing to to with belts or idler pully.

I have done the same you Simon on my Ford Focus 1800tdci, bulb makes bleeding after filter change a doddle as before it was a nightmare job. John.

The quality of everything is getting worse. That's not a cynical opinion, it's a fact documented by consumer watchdogs, vloggers, bloggers, and the media. So it wouldn't surprise me if the quality of modern diesel pumps is now crap. So no diesel...

No.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversion.htm#:~:text=Whilst%20we%20are%20at%20this,Series%20IIA/III%20friction%20plate. Sorry thought both parts had been used and working, this link should help

Think you will have to stay with the 9.5 due to flywheel location pins. With old landy's one often just does not know what others have done in the past. 2a diesel models do have 9.5 unit.

I have used Britpart OEM ones 9 years ago and still going strong, unlike the poly ones which lasted 1 week. You buy the standard cheap Britpart ones and they are only any good if you are selling it.

Two each their own, but I still like old method of paper gasket smeared with grease. Next time something gets opened up someone will not be struggling to clean off silicone like I recently did with 230 I sorted last year. If you do use silicone...

Rubbish parts then. I keep a spare rebushed panhard rod ready for a quick change.

Were the duff bush's poly type or metalastic type. Six month's is a short time for any type. There sure are some poor quality parts about these days.

When up to working temp the thermostat opens to allow coolant to rad. Most will have a thermostat that opens at 88 degrees so your reading there and on the top hose should be somewhere near that. Top of rad close and the lower down the rad face...