Hi, you have to use a nanocom or hawkeye to make sure tat te ECU is not the problem even though it must get above 250rpm input to start coded how? can your diag tool make the ECU learn the security code?

Go with nanocom In BCU - Settings - Alarm/others - 4'th page and make sure that Cruise control appears as "Enabled"

There are more electronic relays within it, i didnt open one to explore but as long as there is power on those pins the problem should be inside, that's in the user guide about those inputs: · BCU switch power: This is the supply voltage as...

Not easy, you'll have to remove the turbo first iirc, just buy branded gasket, i used THIS

it depends on the brand, Mahle or Mann have the o-ring attached and most aftermarkets too e.g https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-discovery-2-td5-engine-oil-rotor-filter/

Check if you have power in C0660 pins 1, 3 and 13 against pin 11(earth) with ignition on and if you get +12V in all of them replace the BCU, disconnect the battery first then after replacement and battery reconnection turn ignition on(dont try to...

This means that the electronic side is working cos the signal gets there... if the latch mechanism wasnt bran new but some scrapyard part send it back and ask for refund cos that's the problem...if the latch is new well speak again but not untill...

Hi, first of all the pics are not about a resistor but about the power transistor pack LR part number JGN100011, i know nothing about those 0700 manufacturer part numbers you mentioned but if the D2's connector fits into the part it should work...

Firstly I think this is what you might have been looking for: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/introduce-yourself.20/ Secondly, if there is a spring in the switch (Which there must be) then there is also a mech to stop it pushing the rotating...

+1^^^ they are all made on the same principle as in the attachment, IMO you better buy a good used ignition harness from a scrapyard and get done with it , i couldn't find a part number for D2 loom, no matter how i search it comes only together...

Thanks a lot, guys! I read your replies too late and had already cut my seat. But I understand that if I had just pulled it with a jack or a pry bar, I would have removed the headrest along with the plastic parts that normally stay inside the...

Classic symptom of blown fuse F25 interior fusebox: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/warning-light.331412/#post-4280411

+1^^^ ... brute force carefully applied to the right point each side is enough, i used arm jack tools one at a side and they came out but you can lift consecutively one side at a time step by step this type

No need to cut the seat open to remove them. You can remove the headrests by getting a longish prybar..put it between the headrest & seat hold it against one of the metal rods & whack it upwards with a hammer to release one side then do the...

Hi, i hope this helps

Just to say I've not forgotten about this project. It becomes cheap tax (30 years old) next year so i will be picking up the theads soon. I did get another discovery 1 clock" (the one in this thread from ebay)but It doesn't work properly as the...

Welcome. Maybe the plug was not connected well then, I'm glad it was so easy... aamof i learned English in high school first then trained myself in many ways ;)

OK, I'm going to admit my stupidity - publicly! I didn't bridge the plug, I bridged the sensor! :vb-groan2: Funnily enough, it works just fine now! Thank you SF. Out of interest, did you learn your English from chatting on here? Your English is...

the early 15P engine pre-facelift discos originaly fitted with MSB101340 ECU had a very strange "hybrid" fuel map, a kind of Eu2/Eu3 mixage and that 104 AAP reading at idle while the MAP is 96 makes me think that who played with the remap loaded...

Nothing seems wrong with the sensor readings but it's visible that it's low on power for some reason, go in autobox ECU programming(or utility i can't remember) and reset addaptive values if the engine ECU was replaced, if it still has the...

Not working: "unable to expand INPUT.zip it is an unsuported format" ... convert it to xlsx and share it with a link, something like this https://www.transfernow.net/dl/202505293Y4xwenQ or other free sharing platform

How?? did you run the 5 throtle purging trick completely untill the EMS stopped flashing then cranked it without throttle? if yes measure the battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5V it willl happily crank but hardly start

Then find somebody with nanocom, it activates all the lights in the "instrument pack" menu unles it's some other issue

I've ordered a new key blade.

Yes but AFAIK only nanocom can do it... though did you try the "Autographics" menu in the BCU programming or you checked only the "Gearbox" section?

yes, see THIS

That blade is missing the plastic part which fits into that slot in the fob, that pin was supposed to fix the plastic there, see the pic HERE and you'll see what i mean

In addition, if all these tests are failing check continuity of the black/white wire from the plug to ECU black plug pin 35

Hi, it's possible to be something on that circuit, the best would be to plug in a nanocom or similar to see if the ECU gets the signal or not but if you can't get hold of a scanner check with multimeter if you have earth on the plug's black/green...

Just to update you on the original issue and the fix, it was being caused by two damaged/bent out of position height sensor brackets. (RR & FL) I am not sure how they figured it out but they sorted the issue, I guess that is why they are the...