I insist on what i already said twice: record inputs fuelling log cos if it's some sensor misbehaviour or or fuelling issue revealed by the live data not even the God of remaps would help, eventually make it worst or kill the engine

Replacement cluster is all good. It's in decent condition too, bit upset it's only got 153k miles on it. Mines up to 225k (and the rest of the vehicle definitely reflects that) so I was looking forward to making 250k one day 😅 might see how easy...

means that you didnt search enough, everything will work as it should as only the faulty part is bypassed, explained here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/necessity-of-the-mod-svs-fix-wiring-mod-option-b-graphic-explanation.272156/

That's something I was wondering. I've used a test and polarity probe and it appears the signals and voltage are reaching the cluster so I have to assume it's the cluster that's gone awry. Ordered a used one so I'm hoping for a plug and play...

Water ingress to the sunroof ECU or corrosion in it is quite common

Many thanks to @gstuart whose post [https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/air-suspension-red-light-solved.384856/post-5500726] solved my nagging suspension problem. For those that don't like a long read, the problem was a loose pin in the...

It does everything like all the other cheap multivehicle OBD2 scanners can do for the Td5 EMS... shows you nice but false fault codes and erratic live data, that's what they do, believe me or not

Hi. That would be the best if you want to have no issues with such things and you can install a hidden "kill switch" under the dash if you want it to be unstartable for potential thieves

Nanocom is the best for Defender no need for comparisons

Then that's the problem, might not be the ECU but a wrong fuel map.

The wastegte seems to be tighter than from factory so it should not be low on boost for that reason that became clear when you said it's from 2003.... i cant say more than i've already said about the black smoke

here's a copy from the first generation nanocom's function list:

I've seen many logs and 10*C difference between the ECT and FT is quite usual and considered normal, as about hight FT input AFAIK when it exceeds 75*C a smoke limiter map kicks in and the ECU reduces the IQ(injected quantity), the higher the rpm...

Hi. Read the fault code, i've seen such symptoms on V8s caused by the CPS or even by the MAF sensor, the code will reveal it

As i said it doesnt seem a management issue, it's overfuelled for some reason and a bit low on boost... might be from the injectors or the turbo if you are certain that there is no boost leak... is it manual or auto? also how many threads are...

Maybe on the P38 as you can inflate all 4 of them more than normal and then it can be stiff but on the D2 being only at the rear if you inflate them more than normal the vehicle will not be horizontal and on a well calibrated D2 the ride is much...

:vb-headbang: ^^^ that's named cognitive dissonance, unless your SLS was not working well from the beginning ... though if you want something really good i recommend THESE but never expect to have the ride quality of one with air springs despite...

Even though the readings look OK unplug the MAF and drive it so for test.... is the EGR bypassed?

You might not notice it if you are not used to a well running Td5 driven with nervs. As long as you have the AAP fault code logged the ECU is on default for that specific code and one of the symptoms is "boost limited to 1 bar" so without correct...

See live stationary voltage inputs... if they are all similar or very close(between 2 - 2.3v) the problem is most probably the hub, if the one with the code is out of that it's a wiring issue ...or ECU misbehaviour

Check the MAP/IAT sensor. Mine did that. With help from on here I checked the data while it was running which proved that even though clean, it was fubar.

Just to say thank you Fery, problem sorted (till the next time!!) I hadn't seen the bit about swapping the relays but that did the trick. Strange as there was no sign, or smell of any burning or damage but anyway, changing it worked. I was all...

The cat is on the downpipe, removing the rest of the exhaust is unlikely to make any difference to a blocked cat.

Try Gates or Contitech

I dont know such mechanical stuff but isn't the numbering through the spyhole about the firing order? i said injector 5 meaning the last from front to rear where there is no glow plug... it's good to know though how carbon can behave in such cases

If that pump related fault code keeps coming back after ignition there is a problem on that path which must be diagnosed properly and repaired, it seems that the fault is recognised only on the system's ignition self test, simply clearing the...

The oddity was that looked like factory fitted and was rock solid while on the other 4 was completely different and softer like this

Hi, what makes you think that the Nano 1 is not giving the correct code? the EVO is not the best with ABS faults so i'd buy a Foxwell beside the Nano 1 if only the ABS is your concern... Unplug one ABS sensor and read codes that way and if Nano 1...

And thank u sierraferry I did understand after reading those pdfs properly

Hallelujah SHE RUNS , I'd had a mouse visitor previous owner had left loads of blue roll after wiping dipstick next to fuse box and said mouse was starting to make a nest and the only wire it had eaten was the return fro. The inertia switch...