So after working on my roof I went to pay my Bill when a lovely woman in her little Ford smacked me in the passanger door, it didnt look a lot but the door was dificult to close any way a quick search round and I and I managed to get a Scrap...

Mystery solved after a divine intervention :)... that black "seal-shape" thing was petrified carbon deposit, the one with the gap is normal ... it was injector nr.5 so the missing glow plug might have some effect too.

It's explained clear enough in both docs i sent you(diagrams and electricall ibrary) in the introduction but you must use acrobat reader to see them properly and go dirctly to where yoiu need... for example in the "charging and starting" diagram...

the connector views are from the pins/cavities side and for each pin there is the wire colour code... read the user guides in the diagrams file and HERE if you want troubleshoot yourself such things

Bizarre indeed... the pics came from a friend of mine, the pics are after he removed the old washers, i dont know much about these things cos when it comes to such jobs i pay my mechanic... i searched a lot by p/n and didnt find a pic from that...

Yes that would be the good move, then unplug C0605(maybe it's just bad contact in it) and check continuity from pin 3 to inertia switch, if interrupted rewire that one, if you have continuity the probem is within the fusebox, you must have...

Hi all. The injectors were removed from the same engine... how comes that the first one has a kind of gap around the nozzle where the washer fits and the other has like a seal??? the other 3 are all like the first one with the gap :oops:, am i...

No such thing Yes, it should at least start and idle on LP but if you start it with spray and the injectors are opening it must idle even without HP, if it dies after it burns the spray means that the injectors are closed Thast's not very...

Yes, the power from F13 through the inertia switch one side and earth from ECU the other

Hi, I recommend KYB brand, very good quality/price ratio and not very expensive: Example for rear

You have to check in the main relay coil's cavities what's missing, the power or the earth to see why it's not closing on ignition and if it's missing the power it can be a problem in the fusebox if F13 is not blown eventually check if there is...

Part of it cos the it's full name is XYZW switch in reality (attached) the inertia switch closes to power from F13 to relay's coil the ECU delivers the earth to main relay and the BCU gives earth to starter relay(cuts it when immobilised) so if...

Foxwell NT 520 or 530 or 510 Elite for Land rover which ever you find cheaper, for example THIS which is the cheapest i know with free shipping, it came to me in one week, seems that UK sellers are more expensive... it's better for SLABS than...

Hi. Presuming it's about a D2(cos there are other 4L petrol discos as well) better buy an affordable diagnostic tool(e.g Foxwell which is good except the engine management where it has some glitches) rather than struggling with multimeter all...

As long as it's the same p/n means it must be fully programmable for any vehicle specs which were fitted with that one IMO, any upgrades or mods would come with a p/n supersession, that's how it works

did you try to connect it to SLABS or autobox ECU too and you get the same message? ACE has nothing to do with that...if the pump doesnt run are you sure is not dead? what if you bridge the pump relay? cand you hear it then?

Charge the battery to full and check the inertia switch to not be unplugged/disturbed or tripped... the immobiliser has nothing to do with that cos immobilised = no crank to which ECU? did you try to access all of them and no comms at all?

Hi, check the al the boost hoses especially to not have a loosen clamp or a crack cos it seems there is a slight boost leak otherwise the readings are within limits it doesnt seem a management issue, check the intercooler too it should have...

No problem with nanocom. I've seen this not once. You might have disturbed something there when you replaced the pins. As long as the TC kicks in there is no fault present but it's a missballance between the wheel speed signals and the ECU...

ONLY if the fault code is SVS related, it's useless for any other fault code

very strange, what kind of diag tool you have, it might have a glitch? try with FL sensor unplugged for test though are those values live readings or stored target values?

If you swapped the two front sensors and the live data is the same while with front left disconencted you get zero or different reading than with sensor connected most probably the problem is on that circuit.

IMO the problem is with the front left but to make sure unplug that one and see live data with it unplugged if it goes to zero or what happens cos i've seen cases when the scanner mixed up the positions

Hi, it's quite common to be a wiring/contact issue hence LR made a repair kit, google out LR030017

Hi, what kind of scanner was used? if you hardwired the sensor to the ECU and you still get the fault code for it you have to read live sensor inputs with stationary vehicle cos there are cases when the fault code doesnt match with reality and...

Try with the fuel cap removed see what happens then, also i've seen this symptom when the loop on the vent hose(shown with red arrow) was choked, i can't explain why but once released the problem was solved so check that too.

count the threads left out from the locknut on the wastegate rod, if there are less than 12 adjust it to 12 and see then with F2 removed but if it's a noticeabe difference with fuse removed than with it in place replace the wastegate modulator...

Is it manual or auto?

THIS works faster

The answer is YES