Took the P38 out for a camp before a cycling event around Exmoor at the weekend. Some very steep hills in very hot weather and it was absolutely spot on. Currently hovering over the buy button for new front and rear airbags for the P38...

I'll give that a go, ta.

Cycle the ignition a few times without starting. On mine I can usually hear the motors moving after a while. The docs say it self- calibrates every X hundred uses, but who knows what the real number is !!

Yes it's the bottom one. It's a long shot but try unplugging the power to the hvac to force a learn cycle. Failing that, flash the relevant motor terminals with a 9v battery (both ways) to give it a nudge

AC was regassed a couple of weeks ago, lovely..until today. Book came up, heat on full drivers side, passenger side cool, both set to low on the hvac. Cycling the ign didn't cure it so I had to carry on, 2 hrs round trip getting cooked. Back home...

Here, I can have a pre-MOT test at a reduced fee.

yes but not my cars, someone else can be the % This is project P38 since getting it on the road. Previous MOT was 2014 before I bought it !!

Last year I put vacuum on my Blue P38 AC system, but didn't get round to having it gassed. Re-checked to day & it still has full vacuum, so hopefully gonna get it done this week. Green P38 AC is nice & cold, so that one is getting used...

But MOT stations are expected to have a % fail

My local MOT guy will do a dummy MOT test for the standard fee. That way I can fix it before the real test & avoid fails or advisories.

Come on you two, sort this argument out! 😝

I'm very sorry to say it, but if you have metal powder in the oil, it's time for a rebuild or a second hand replacement.

I hope they know what they are doing or you could have a problem.

The glove box can be a right pain in the arris to get open and working properly :(

If the airbags show signs of cracking, they will be leaking. The leaks open and close where the bags fold so leaks are not always easy to detect. The bags have an 8 year 80K miles design life. They are not very expensive, I replaced all four...

With my steel rule method, it's almost as quick to do the timing as it is to fit the hot start box.

Realise this. I fitted it back when the car was daily driven, and needed a ‘quick fix’ - now it’s an occasional weekend car there’s a whole list of jobs to put it back to proper.

Waited until it was ‘cool enough’ to run the glow plugs. Started on the button. I’ll remember this for next time! I have got a synergy box set up solely to treat the hot start issue. I think I’m going to have to look at 1) removing the synergy...

Finally after more than a year, repaired the plastic tabs on my lower tailgate trim last night. 2mm aluminium strips glued with Sticks Like SH*T. All nicely bonded, and re-installed just now. The cover has been flapping for ages.

Pop into a shop, buy a bottle of cold water and pour it over the top of fuel injection pump. Over heat sensor just under cover and can stop it firing when too hot. water trick can cool it down enough to make it fire up

Derv. Went and had a walk round a classic car museum in the town and now I’m just waiting for it to cool enough to try a cold start..

The thing is if you dont have operating pressure in the system it may not leak. You need to spray the bags around the folds. The "going to off road" some have reported that before, but I dont know if it was ever resolved. But it could be sensor...

At that age you probably have 4 bags past their shelve life and it only takes 1 to leak to get the car to lower over night. So was it up when you left it and down the next morning? You have probably been feeding a leak for some time and the...

It may be running but is it making any air. If the piston seal is worn you will get very little pressure.

have a look i technical archive for Wammers post on checking compressor. It could be duff

Think of how much easier it will be for the next person searching how to increase fuel economy with differentials. They’ll be giddy. It’l be like he did all the work for them

I did everything to the proper tightness apart from the 2 ball joints on the hub but thought they were "tight enough" 🤔 I did reuse a bolt for the arm>chassis on one of the arms because i forgot to buy a new one 🤔🫣🙄

Check the tightness, a lot of the big Landy stuff needs to be vain popping tight. Especially on the multi link stuff 👍

Well i made progress on my suspension rattle. When i replaced the arb drop link, the "special washer" was missing, so i didn't use one. It was fine for a while but i think it started to rattle - just fitted a washer and the rattle has gone...

That's a result😎