Yes you're right. I hope that wasn't a senior moment!! I'm not senior yet!!! But it's probably still related.. limp mode.. etc

Just cut the bolts off. I’ve got a few stainless nuts and bolts here you can have. I had to do the same to mine. It won’t be “original” but it’s still secure.

Deposit on another one from someone i know, another silver 4.2 supercharged, 107k full history, if thats the better shell il use all my bumpers and lights and get my plate transferred over somehow (34year old and don't know anything about private...

Whole f_ckin' day wasted today on those two bolts and no further forward. That and trying to bleed the high pressure pipes with 2 dodgy batteries that **** themselves as soon as you try to crank. Utterly wasted ****ing day. Those bolts have one...

+1

I had this issue, it was solved quite quickly with a blowtorch and hacking away at the housing around the nut until I could just about fit a wrench on it to keep it still

Wreck the rad mountings, and use a stainless nut and bolt on reassembly.

Even better, put my old valve body in, now the gearbox has locked up everything checked, even my old pan back on old bridge square thing everything as it drove here yesterday, Checked the airline in the clutch e tube no blowby or escaping air...

It converts the logic level signals from the ECU to levels that drive the solenoids.

The black electrical rectangular thing bolted to side of valve block

Well that went well..... everything checked and torqued to the manual, .... its absolutely horrific now, loads of failed 3rd to 4th changes, slam into 6th, sometimes wont come out of 6th. I don't actually even want to drive it more then the...

If mine was the original its 25 years old, so not done badly

Weirdly I have never changed mine. Makes me think the quality of the originals is massively better than anything available now.

I'm totally confused

Ebay.

4 shraeder valves . I keep a set in a little tin in the boot for just such an emergency. Never had to use them since I bought them YET;)

If it seems to be working ok, then just get some of those emergency valves so if it does have a hissy fit in europe you can at least fit them and get you home. J

For a week or so old gals been a bit hesitant on pulling away especially uphill. Cut a long story short narrowed it down to MAP sensor. Had a discount code for the bay so ordered a brand new one for £27. Fitted yesterday and the difference is...

Found this on my hard-drive. No idea where I got it but might be useful to someone else: viscous fan testing procedure.

Beef stock, or vegan🤯

Range rover and its valve body donor are ready to go to workshop tomorrow to take up 2 ramps, new zf fluids here, new pan, new tubes and bridge seal and mechatronic seals, reset all the adaptions and hope its fine again, I really miss driving the...

Could be, I'll take a close look at mine later. Edit, I can confirm that the cap has an air hole best viewed from the inside of the cap. A partial vacuum in the reservoir is likely to affect braking.

I cleaned it with isopropyl on a cotton bud, which seems to have improved it. So I'll give it another go with the toothbrush 👍

Given the amount of rise and fall of the fluid, an airtight cap is unlikely IMO.

+1 on doing the brake bleed procedure as per Rave. If you think youve got all the air out on a step give it another 5 pumps and more air will come out.

All 3 nipples!! Not just the 2 you can see

Condenser replaced, took it to the garage for them to nitrogen test - left for 3 hours and didn’t drop a single PSI. Regassed and I’ve got lovely cold air again. Finally*. *until the next thing breaks

Brimmed the tank and worked out my mpg to 23.6 Checked what the dash said for the tank full... 23.5 That's pretty close!!

@petebowling when posting a thread, at least select s suitable car model prefix. Makes our crystal ball gazing a little easier.

You posted it in some random guys thread. I saw the photos can see the red coolant