Before removing the IRD, in RAVE it says to drain both the IRD (agreed), but also drain the automatic geabox fluid. Is it really necessary to do the transmission ?

Nanocom does not show correct voltage. Needs a voltmeter measurement on battery and also alternator to confirm any cable loss between the two.

+1 on both sides of the gasket. A continous bead with no gaps.

Must be a big tupperware box for the steel bumpers ?

Did a 5 mile runs in Son & Wife's Freelanders. Both on local roads & couple of miles on a dual carriage way. The MPG was done using my Car Scanner Pro app on iPhone with a Tonwan bluetooth OBD dongle. Wife's = 3-door, 2005 (1st picture) Son's...

Ideally don't post the same question twice ?? Then follow the advice in the other thread.

You will struggle on those ramps. Also probably dangerous to have the car on it's wheels with raduis arm(s) removed because there nothing to stop the axle moving back & forth. It really needs tall axle stands supporting the chassis.

+1 on support the car & let the axle hang on the shocks. Do them one side at a time & the axle will rotate less when loosening & doing up the bolts.

Bad joints in fusebox ?

My blue P38 has single rear pipe & centre box. It sounds much more throaty than the green P38 which has the standard twin pipe system. Not excessively loud, but enough to turn heads, especially at pedestrian crossings if I rev it !!

Heavy mate & long bar ?

After my rebuild I ran mine with just the cats. It was good but . . . . . . .

That assumes LR use same colour on diagrams & wires !!

It will be noisy, but sound good until the wife & neighbours complain !

Most generic OBD readers should talk to the engine ECU. If there's issues with the k-line, maybe other wires on the ECU have issues such as sensor wires that might impact the fuel consumption ? If the Autel connected did you check sensor data ?

Exactly, although I called it a "special wiring adapter" to not give away the secret on an open forum. It does require "suitable" diagnostics (I presume yours has the required functions)

How to do the bonnet latch part is is well described in various threads. To actually unlock the doors you needs to access the diagnostic lines & have decent diagnostics. @mowoh as I said in reply to your PM, I would need to see picture of you...

BTW, for the coolant pressure test, I have two of those no-name kits, and found the documentation on what car each is for to be wrong. As said above try several caps until you find one that seals properly.

I suspect previous owner(s) might have fractured number-2 glowplug in my son's TD4. The threaded part came out leaving the centre firmly in the head. The other 3 changed for new plugs, so it starts mostly ok !! Even leaving it "unclamped"...

Can anyone verify if the live data above looks ok ?

Maybe, but would need to take a look at mine tomorrow. As McGorsky says it's not loads !

That pic looks like the valley gasket metal clamp. The bolt is nowhere near the coolant, so unlikely to be that. The leak is most like one of the two coolant ports on each head. If I remember correctly the inlet manifold block the two rear...

Update. Firstly stipped and cleaned the injectors, inlet manifold, inlet ports. Then cleaned out all the carbon build-up from injector-2 port in the head (other three were fairly clean but did them as well). Cleaned out the vortex crank...

Coolant pressure tester & LED Inspection mirror. Get the engine warmed up first. Then switch off & pressurise the cooling system to about 14psi. The rear block core plugs will be inside the bell-housing, so check around the bottom...

Unlikely to be the upper manifold. Either the valley is not quite sealed at the back, or could be the rear head core plugs ? There's also a couple of core plugs on the rear of the block, behind the flywheel.

Got the injectors out today. 1,3 & 4 popped out fairly easily with a flat bar on the plastic cover to support my pry-bar. Number-2 needed my slide hammer pictured above, but eventually came out. Took all the tips off, and cleaned them out so...

No way I would rely on the air suspension when going under the car.

yes I beleive so, but only check using gauge, not diagnostics. Nanocom EDC fueling menu doesn't seem to show temperature like my GEMS.

PM me with an email address and I will send you my FIP timing info. I have always found it necessary to undo the pipes at the injectors to move the pump. The FIP bolts are obvious if you look. Modulation should be 50% with an engine...

You need a cranked 12mm ring spanner for the fip. Inlet manifold nuts are m8 flanged, mine were a mix of 12mm and 13mm socket sizes, I replaced them all with 13mm flange nuts from screwfix. I dropped one or two of those nuts and never found them...