Watching this thread. Err unwatched

Me too.

Traction fault might need investigating rather than just clearing. Far too far from me for my nano

But more AI posts Seb.

Bored. BTW p23

It’s taken 436 posts and 22 pages but I think we’ve successfully proven that no one on this forum is helpful and that OP is by far and away a high value individual and we’re all betas. Now to match his post length with some AI drivel: Ah...

BTW, P22

Edited & sorted. Now fix your post !! :handbag:

I have nothing against you. Didn't realise you could not type on your device ?

Hang on - will check my spare heater box in the garage. Levers fully towards driver, air goes through the heater matrix. Fully towards engine cooled air bypasses matrix.

It's simply not gramatically correct, so the sentence does not mean anything. The intent might be correct, so write it properly, or do what other non natives do and appologise for their English upfront.

and btw, we are now on P21 & counting :handbag:

er no it's not a technical response, it is gibbersh English. Sounds like it came from a Chinese translation.

So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump. Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The...

Roll on P21 . . . . :handbag:

+1 on check for white powder - if there is the dryer is breaking down & either needs replacing, or new dessicant. Diaphragm leaking could be either dryer powder preventing it from closing, or a split in the diaphragm. Full valve block rebuild...

I'm sure it will boil for a while yet !!

No that's the compressor inlet filter. The exhaust silencer (not filter - my bad) is at the back of the block. It just unscrews by hand.

Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump...

Clearly you are rather over sensitive to anything contrary to what you think you know. Most of the comments early in this thread were why it might not be a good idea. You took them as direct critisim rather than answer in a technical manner...

:handbag:

If it went down one of the oil returns, chances are it's in the sump ? From that angle, my bet would be it bounced on chassis or drive shafts & is lodged or stuck to an oily bit below. If it hit the ground it could have bounced anywhere...

Cycle the ignition a few times without starting. On mine I can usually hear the motors moving after a while. The docs say it self- calibrates every X hundred uses, but who knows what the real number is !!

:handbag::dance:

"This" was the first word if I remember correctly. Anyway, have you swapped the diffs yet?

So many words with so little meaning plus a one month trip in view. Must be retired or a politician to have that amount of spare time. If retired, then from an age when swapping bit on cars was a simple thing to do. Not so now with all the...

yes but not my cars, someone else can be the % This is project P38 since getting it on the road. Previous MOT was 2014 before I bought it !!

Last year I put vacuum on my Blue P38 AC system, but didn't get round to having it gassed. Re-checked to day & it still has full vacuum, so hopefully gonna get it done this week. Green P38 AC is nice & cold, so that one is getting used...

The other next steps is a banch test like this: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/97-p38-gems-eas-issue-which-seems-to-have-expanded.387706/post-5576496

GEMS has an additional cover plate, but I think the 1999 onwards it's part of the sump on Thor engine ? Not sure about diseasel though. The bell housing inspection plate should be enough to see the flex plate on all types ?