Not a friggin specialist is he then?

There's enough guides and YouTube videos I should be fine, and t I be honest this forum has helped me more than anything. Better than my local landy specialist who refused to work on my car , due to " no experience with p38s"

Me too.

@dubloman 👍

It's on here somewhere

Here`s Dave`s instructions sheet hopefully it worked

let me eat my dinner now its ready and i will see if i can manage to scan in and post the info he gave me that i printed out.

I've got one left that I got off kermie then I'm out. I changed a pot a while back but I can't remember if it was this blend motor or the distribution one above it. I'll have to search my posts to see which it was I was whinging about. Wanna flog...

I've had great success with the pressure testers. You can see those with the engine cold and turned off which makes actually finding the leaks a lot easier. If your leak is actually a cold fault (i.e. sealing up when it warms up) then that's...

I dont know where they are on that engine or how big, but should be pretty obvious to be able to test if it has (possibly) gone that way. J

Good to know it’s not just me… I’ve come inside for a tea and a distress. I’m going to go rummage around (in the rain) again afterwards. What a mess about!

Not that I can feel or get at with the flexi magnet. God I hope not. Where abouts are they located? I’ve had the magnet down all of the channels in the top and I’m confident I’ve checked every area. I won’t tell you…👀

Fingers crossed for the latter then! Would it have been able to fit down a return at the back of the engine? I don’t think it bounced towards the front but who knows…

I once did similar on a Dolly Sprint engine, it was one that attached the timing chain sprocket to the camshaft. It fell in the sump. Getting it out again was messy, very messy, but I did it without having to drain the oil. Had to get the sump...

Its not hiding under the cam is it? Are they small enough to fit down one of the oild drains from the head down? If not then hope fully it hasnt gone all the way down. Do you still have the under engine gaurd on? Please dont tell me you are...

No, but if there’s a bolt in there it might as well have!! I’m not sure I dare! It ‘skipped’ across to the right bank and then I lost sight of it

If it went down one of the oil returns, chances are it's in the sump ? From that angle, my bet would be it bounced on chassis or drive shafts & is lodged or stuck to an oily bit below. If it hit the ground it could have bounced anywhere...

I really should pay more attention! I thought for a minute the engine had DROPPED OUT! If you know where you dropped it from, can you replicate and drop another nut, but attach to a piece of 'cotton' thread? Thin enough not to impede the drop...

The little legs to the potentiomèter (French keyboard predictive text) get loose from their soldered joints and cause bad feedback relating to their position and can be soldered. It may well be just the case. 👍

I was thinking maybe a stiff flap was causing a motor stall and not a blend motor issue at all. But the motor wouldn't run when off the box so that's that. Found a 9v battery for testing tomorrow, unless it's peeing down which is expected...

Sorry dude, I have trouble keeping up with my own kids names 😱

It was @biketeacherdave That had the write up with pics.

One step at a time my mate. Also when you do the diaphragm there also the none return valves. They sit in the block a certain way, these are something else that can leak but definitely check the diaphragm first as they crack and leak air from...

Ah , that makes sense , hopefully I can get this running. I don't want to have to switch to coils.

It will not work, if ECU wants to lift left rear for example but the wrong solenoid is fitted, it will raise the wrong corner. I number each solenoid with a corresponding number where it fits using a marker pen.

Il do it one at a time ,take pictures, and following the guide. What can happen if you muddle them up?

Gorra a full one sat in its plastic housing along with driver for £35 :rolleyes:

Either do the solenoids one at a time or carefully mark each one with the place it fits. All too easy to get them muddled.

Right , rebuild kit is on the way . Seems reasonable to understand, makes sense if it's leaks as it took ages to change heights when it was working

So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump. Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The...