no white powder thankfully.

+1 on check for white powder - if there is the dryer is breaking down & either needs replacing, or new dessicant. Diaphragm leaking could be either dryer powder preventing it from closing, or a split in the diaphragm. Full valve block rebuild...

Any signs of white powder when you took the silencer off?

No, that is the air intake filter for the compressor.

I can feel air out of that also , put my finger on it and you can hear the air noise change. Thanks mate god send 👍 What's the best step from here ? Is it a rebuild of the valve block?

No that's the compressor inlet filter. The exhaust silencer (not filter - my bad) is at the back of the block. It just unscrews by hand.

After I installed I ran the car for 10 mins with the door open and still didn't rise , I took that off and I could feel air put my finger on the port it made a bit of suction.

Just to be sure you mean this right ?

Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump...

It was @brianp38dse I think. The injector head at the back of the pump can be done on engine and only undo the injector head piece until you can just see the oring. Any further and you run the risk of parts inside dropping out of position...

Might have been @backinblack that did the guide?

It was just the top seal on both mine but the diesel ran down and made it look like there were lots of leaks.

If there is one positive to be had from this thread, It's got me proper interested in the L322. I like all LRs but never really paid much attention to the RRs.

This is amazing

It’s taken 436 posts and 22 pages but I think we’ve successfully proven that no one on this forum is helpful and that OP is by far and away a high value individual and we’re all betas. Now to match his post length with some AI drivel: Ah...

I don't actually remember saying you were self employed because you are a horrible person.

No I pointed out you wouldn’t get the old 1s in. You failed to read and acknowledge somebody was trying to help, then treated me as you have always. I am pretty glad now I forgot to include the part numbers and sizes to my post after your...

To late mate you will elbows deep before you even get to that point. J

I have asked for details of where this ratio came from, you gave me garbage from a google search. I have said that it seems they could possibly be interchangeable, with risk of some minor changes, drive shafts. I have given you my thoughts on tc...

Only with the ones made in the EU by Conti I think, but yes, unless you buy from the states it could be problematical.

I wouldn't touch Arnott 2. Had manufacturing issues recently. Arnott 3 are good but not worth the expense. Dunlops are best bet.

Works for me?

Sure it is in the TDC hole? A skipped tooth would cause issues. The cam is set with a 12 thou spacer when tightening the cam stretch bolt. 10 mm is way too much.

I’d ideally avoid them as well. I don’t plan on getting rid of the P38 until the government makes it illegal to drive them - I’ve invested far too much money and blood to pass it on. I’ll take a look at the Dunlops though. Hopefully they’ll last...

I avoid Autodoc if possible. Arnott Gen 2 are good if you plan on keeping the car long term. They have been on my RHD P38 for around 14 years and still look like new. I got them from P38 Spares, they were on special offer at the time and not...

Thing is I did research it and have given you info as to this may be an issue, I have the part numbers and sizes for both diffs and the 2010 onwards are different. So you are just thinking I don’t know and am guessing, when actually you are just...

BTW, P22

Edited & sorted. Now fix your post !! :handbag: