The only issue is getting the old bearing out as they take a bit of force if old and original.
I'd bought some blueprint units and found one had failed after two years😵
I then bought an SKF bearing and used the blueprint outer casing and an...
I think the MAF is the culprit, when going slow on a roundabout or junction the rpm is in the region of 700ish the MAF reading goes up and down from 25kg and when the car starts to “hunt” it goes down as far as 0 for a second or so. As soon as it...
Hold on there, I couldn't see the detail on my phone but the red box as pwood999 says is a radio amp and a Land Rover part I suspect for diversity aerials so do not remove it. Never seen one like that so it's new to me.
Not everything. Disconnect the blue antenna wire only.
Once you sort the FOB, it will work next to the window (near the receiver), but local RF interference will no longer wake the BECM & drain the battery.
It sounds like it's not getting fuel. Is the in tank pump working?
Have you checked for spark?
I'd go back over the work to see if anything has been overlooked 🤔
Did it run OK before the repair (apart from the original issue)?
Solved a mistery, the rev counter. The red wire is 12 V plus, the grey-red one is lighting the green one goes to the coil plus and the brown one is the negative. All I had to do was to remove it from its housing... So rev green goes to the coil...
Tackled the dashboard today. It is in, but not yet bolted down. Instrument carrier is in, but not fully connected, I need to figure out which way the big connector goes in, easy, all I have to do is match wire colors to indicators, e.g. indicator...
One switch failing doe not affect the others but I have had them all not working on my project car. However, it could be that the electronics have failed.
It's not those bits that need cleaning, it's the switch contacts. To get at the contacts, you have to cut the tops off the plastic pins on the back of the pcb and remove the switch body. you then lift the self adhesive plastic membrane, remove...
...it leaves me no peace. I had a look at the circuit board today. When I assembled it, I was a bit happy, because it looked a bit nasty. Then I cleaned it but unfortunately it still doesn't work.
Should I buy a new switch pack?
Thanks guys. As it happens I went ahead without the nanocom & loosened the mid 4 FIP bolts and tapped the actuator forwards with a hammer & it's running sweet as a nut now (aren't hammers just the best thing ever 😄 🤣 😂). I'll get some readings...
To read modulation the engine has to be running at max temp. You're looking for 50% for perfection but a bit either side of that doesn't make any real differance.
are we talking about the ball on the throttle activator being in the slide on the pump shaft if it not in the probability is that it will not run and also if the top housing is to far fowaed it wont run has this pump run at all?
are you getting...
You'll need a compressor to seat the bag on the seals when you put it back on, takes about 40-50psi I think. Probably good to have a lovely assistant around to hold the strut up while you pull the bag down at the base and inflate it a bit too...
Yeah the bags look pretty good to be honest, no that old at all in person. I think I’ll get the shock out and give it a proper going over, might give the new O-rings a try, will see. Thanks for all the help.
It's three large O rings and spacers which I'd be curious as to why it would even fail there and you'll have to go to the effort of stripping it completely to get to them. I'm not confident enough to say one way or the other whether or not...
That's where the bag is supposed to seal to the strut itself. It has a set of O-Rings (3x for memory) and plastic spacers to create the seal. It looks as thought strut is fairly new by the condition of the paint there. I'd be inclined to just...
So! With that screen and some sensor cleaning I got the wheel to rise, but could hear a hissing, and wasn’t going to the top, I could feel air coming out of the bottom of the cylinder (don’t know what else to call it, see the picture , have drawn...
This is good news I think. The car agrees with the situation by the look of it. The flashing red line is the one above the wheel (the arch height?), I'm not that familiar with the earlier screen so I'm just trying to get it clear in my mind...
Had zero knowledge that there was this capability on the screen, thanks so much, will have a look today and see whats going onc extremely helpful, thanks!