Definitely a nice little project. If I were more mechanically minded, I’d be up for it!

:vb-doh:

thats the funniest thing i have read in years :vb-flippy: you do realise that the name Britpart is mispelt the Br is replaced with Sh. JFI my replacement screen, (from the insurer) made by Pilkington, generally regarded as the best you can get,

I've been putting off doing mine for 15 years. :rolleyes:

yes most of the ECUs are on the same diagnostic line, so, even though the 16 pin socket is inside the passenger compartment you will be able to find the wire on the engine ECU and create your own 16 pin socket in the engine compartment. Very clever.

Exactly, although I called it a "special wiring adapter" to not give away the secret on an open forum. It does require "suitable" diagnostics (I presume yours has the required functions)

sending off the ECU for repair seems an expensive hassle without testing the K line wire first.

It’s not AG, so I won’t 😉

Painted........

… and I tidied up my ‘go to’ basic car tool corner in the garage 🤩 I give it 3 months till I can’t find anything again

Shiny bit fitted, so RH mount and insulator is now fully replaced. I’m sure there is still a very faint ‘wobble’ / ‘oscillation’ coming through in 1st and 2nd, in the higher revs, but only under hard acceleration (so high revs but low ish...

oh and I have an invitation from one of the clubs to join them at Pride of Longbridge this Saturday, assuming that the marshals even let me in a Landrover (it's doubtful). Anyway if I can get in then I'll be at PoL this Saturday with 1.8 auto.

The thing to remember is don't force them. Andy's technique and use of no more than 25Nm is spot on. I had 1 of 3 on my FL1 SE that absolutely refused to turn, so I didn't risk breaking it off.

And I used a torque wrench, set to the correct torque. ;)

I would expect nothing less! It's my old F1, that is now with my daughter, that I'm more concerned about. Strange how it still finds it's way back here when it has a problem :rolleyes:😂

If you need to replace the FL2 glow plugs, they are only tightened to 8Nm, so come out easily. FL1 plugs are often tightened like they are spark plugs, which is completely unnecessary.

How to do the bonnet latch part is is well described in various threads. To actually unlock the doors you needs to access the diagnostic lines & have decent diagnostics. @mowoh as I said in reply to your PM, I would need to see picture of you...

The advantage of having a single burner and a kettle with supplies for a cuppa☕. Never leave home without them on a long trip. J

Also, the rear diff mounts

check the propshaft union bearings, or universal joints on the propshaft that is if you still have them attached