Oh yes, it's a bugger. I found a long tapered punch helps to enlign the holes but it's still a bugger. I've only ever done the job twice, all bushes, so haven't found an easy way that a landy mechanic at a dealer probably has.
I agree on principle that removing both is not a problem as you regain alignment whe. You refit. However from expiriance of swapping bushes on one and both radius arms. To get it lined back up and the bolts in requires a lot of prying, ratchet...
I can't remember the details sorry. But I remember it felt very secure with little effort. I had the same issues as you and I was trying to set modulation with a frost on the ground! Taking the fan off was the only way to get it hot, temp does...
Whys it hard to put back on? Remove it and wedge it away from the pullys with something, I used a piece of timber I had lying around.
No need to remove it completely off the car.
Found my post when I was a bit more dumber on p38 stuff.
Thread 'Sunroof- found where the leaks are but is there a part number.' https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sunroof-found-where-the-leaks-are-but-is-there-a-part-number.381370/
As said, clean the 4 drains out first.
Then, open the sunroof and stick your head through or maybe lean over the roof from the outside and using a torch and a pokey thing like a pencil, examine in the area between the cassette and the underside...
Did this a while ago but needed decent rain shower to test it ...
Leak in boot fixed. It was the bonding along the top of the rear quarterlight window. Smear of sealant in the gap and she's dry again.
The hevac not only reads the pot value but also the current draw. If it's near the upper limit then maybe it pulls slightly extra current under certain conditions and trips the book symbol.
It's a bit bizarre to be fair.
The book has been off for months, but cold or damp weather generally brings it on. Could also mean that I probably don't move the adjustments much in the summer, just screen and dash vents in play, but cold weather...
Could also be the 16-pin connector on the HEVAC failing ? I definitely need to replace the connector on my Green P38. All the motors & potentiometers test ok with a 9V battery & the flaps are def not sticking.
Loaded it with ramps and tools, drove to my friend's place and (believe it or not) fixed his Toyota! Ha! Land Rover rescues Toyota! It had to happen one day. Have that naysayers!
I also ordered replacement air springs for the rear as I have...
My book symbol has gone again:confused:.
Question- would I be right in thinking that, for example, a sticky flap would bring up the book and ,without touching anything on the hvac , the next start will clear the book until I adjust something...
Thanks guys. As it happens I went ahead without the nanocom & loosened the mid 4 FIP bolts and tapped the actuator forwards with a hammer & it's running sweet as a nut now (aren't hammers just the best thing ever ๐ ๐คฃ ๐). I'll get some readings...
To read modulation the engine has to be running at max temp. You're looking for 50% for perfection but a bit either side of that doesn't make any real differance.
Some twonk in a van going too fast down a narrow country road smacked my os door mirror sending the glass through my open window on to my lap. Casing is scuffed but otherwise OK, just a new mirror glass needed. Mine are heated so I've discovered...