Drizz

Drizz

Well-Known Member
My chassis comes back from the Galvers on Wednesday and im undecided on whether to paint it or not?
If youd had youres done would you paint it or leave it for all to see?
Also what prep does it need to be able to paint it? I hear you cant just paint over Galv?

Thanks in advance....
 
you can paint whenever you like but unless you can seal entire surface completely it will eventually come off , galv works in the same way sacrifical anodes work on boats and the galv like zinc anodes gradually erodes leaving white powder on surface instead of the steel rusting,but will under normal cicumstances take decades to thin back to steel,the better protected from the damp the longer it will last as decorative finish
 
paint it

hide it

cover it in mud

just dont let the bastids see its been galved THEY WILL NICK IT
hiide it
 
Hammerite galv primer, then paint it black hammerite - touch it up once a year - like waxoyl just less mess (well less messy for me :p)
 
After protection paint it black with the same paint Mikey used on his rock sliders, that seems pretty tough stuff.
 
Ive been pondering over whether to paint my galv chassis. From what Ive read the galv chassis should be brushed over with mordent solution such as T-wash, then washed off with water. This turns the galv black and pits the surface. It should then be etch primed and then painted. But there doesnt seem to be a definitive answer as to what paint to use. The last thing I want is paint flaking off!
 
well keep it dry then ,the electrolytical action between steel and zinc cant be stopped by paint,however you treat it ,but is easy enough to clean and repaint
 
Wash the chassis with a 50% vinegar solution, rinse well let dry, prime with zinc chrome-mate ( its the primer for galvanized steel) use the sprayer for waxoil t get into the hidden places. use rtv silicon on all spots that touch steel and stainless, galvanized bolts,nuts and washers , and you should be able to eliminate most of the problem areas.

Then paint the chassis any color before assembly
 
its the stone chips I wuld want to protect it from to avoid the zinc getting knocked off and leaving holes for rust work through.

may be a rubbersied costing on the high impact areas for this.
 
knocked off with stone chips are you serious ,even if it did galv around area would stop it rotting not looking like fresh metal but rusting badly
 
some bits get a good hammering and then there is no galve to be eaten to protect the steel it will rot which you dont want.

some stone chip applied in the right places will prevent this which is what he was asking, to paint not to paint.

you love to bait dont you james, but no catch catchy :p
 
personally i would paint it as the zinc can corrode ,
a few years ago some appo's were given three landrovers as projects, they were supplied with three brand new galv chassis's , ( yeah repairing the old ones would of been a good learnin tool for em)
anyway they set about shot blasting the chassis's and then painted em :doh:
 
fett said:
some bits get a good hammering and then there is no galve to be eaten to protect the steel it will rot which you dont want.

some stone chip applied in the right places will prevent this which is what he was asking, to paint not to paint.

you love to bait dont you james, but no catch catchy :p
Click to expand...

Anti stone chip coatings are tougher than galv are they :doh: :doh: i don't think so.

And as James say's even if there is a bare steel bit it wont rot away, it work in the same way as the sacrificial anodes on boat's (also as James has pointed out) one block of zinc bolted to an outboard engine protects the whole engine, in fact it will protect every thing it is electrically connected to.
 
oldskool said:
Anti stone chip coatings are tougher than galv are they :doh: :doh: i don't think so.

And as James say's even if there is a bare steel bit it wont rot away, it work in the same way as the sacrificial anodes on boat's (also as James has pointed out) one block of zinc bolted to an outboard engine protects the whole engine, in fact it will protect every thing it is electrically connected to.
Click to expand...

It not tougher but will cause the stones to bounce off rather than "shot blast" the galve off over time. Hence the name stone chip protection.

Also galve protects areas close to and including ares that are covered by the zinc but if its chipped after a few years the steel will eat all galv around the bare steel and it will then rust nicely which is what we are trying to avoid.

It shows you dont know what your talking about old skool as the way the anode on a boat works depends on the whole hull being emersed in the electrolyte (sea) Unless you park your landy in water over night the only area protected by the glav is the area directly around it. Hence if there is a chip in it the bare steel will eat the galv around that chip untill it cant protect the bare steel any more as its to big and far from the edge of the galv.

In the same way an anode on a hulls boat wont stop its deck fittings corroding (unless its sunk :p) the zinc on say his rear crossmember wont stop his rear out rigger corroding if its been damaged (again unless its sunk :p). you need it to be right on the exposed steel or around it for it to protect it out of the electrolyte situation.Again once the steel has eaten the surrounding thin coating of zinc it will rust. even a stone chip.

I fully admit we are talking many years before it would cause serious trouble on a landy but I am guessing he forked out for the glav chassis so it would be around for many years to come and he wouldnt have to be under there sorting !

As on high impact areas around for example a wheel there will be plenty of stone chipping going on, this will in the end damage and rust. Better to prevent it with a simple application of rubberised stone chip protection on those high impact areas.

Also after 15 years in the marine industry starting with a full apprenticeship as a shipwright I know plenty about anodes and the galvanic scale thanks.
 
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