R

Rotaxengine

New Member
Hi all,

I have a Freelander 2 (2014 reg) and I’m trying to find details of the wiring/power connections for the tailgate latch (4-pin connector). I’d like to know which terminals I can power to operate it independently via an external switch.

Background: the latch has been unreliable for months. My garage replaced the micro-switch, then later the complete latch assembly, but the fault remains. They suspect a control unit issue but couldn’t get a wiring diagram from Land Rover.

If anyone knows the correct pinout or a way to test/activate the latch directly, I’d really appreciate the help.

There are 3 black wire to the 6 pin connector
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
I'd guess the wiring is the same as the earlier model, as the boot latch is the same.
Click to expand...
Hi,
Thanks for your reply. I am happy to accept the wiring is the same but do you know what the connectiona are?

The unit has three black wires going into it. I’m assuming one terminal connects to a 12V supply to operate the solenoid for opening the door. I also suspect that one of the other wires must be an earth, since the latch itself isn’t grounded (it screws directly onto the painted door without an earth connector).

I’ve already tried applying voltage to the terminals on the old unit—which, as it turns out, wasn’t faulty—but had no luck. What I’d like to do is find a way to operate the latch directly from the car’s battery, bypassing the electronics and the microswitch door-opening assembly.

Thanks
Ken
 
may help
 

Attachments

  • fl2 DOOR LOCKS.png
    fl2 DOOR LOCKS.png
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Rotaxengine said:
Hi,
Thanks for your reply. I am happy to accept the wiring is the same but do you know what the connectiona are?

The unit has three black wires going into it. I’m assuming one terminal connects to a 12V supply to operate the solenoid for opening the door. I also suspect that one of the other wires must be an earth, since the latch itself isn’t grounded (it screws directly onto the painted door without an earth connector).

I’ve already tried applying voltage to the terminals on the old unit—which, as it turns out, wasn’t faulty—but had no luck. What I’d like to do is find a way to operate the latch directly from the car’s battery, bypassing the electronics and the microswitch door-opening assembly.

Thanks
Ken
Click to expand...
Here's the page from the diagram.
Screenshot_20250825_225901_Adobe Acrobat.jpg


Pin 1 is the motor drive from the BCM. Pin 2 is the earth path for the interior light sense circuit. Pin 3 is the ground for both the motor and interior light sense line.
 
So what is happening with the tail gate ?is it not opening at all, is the latch not getting any power to it, can you hear the latch clicking when you press the open door on the fob.

Also have you tried just the rear tail button on the fob on it's own?
LdfvOY8l.jpg
1
 
Nodge68 said:
Here's the page from the diagram.
View attachment 348512

Pin 1 is the motor drive from the BCM. Pin 2 is the earth path for the interior light sense circuit. Pin 3 is the ground for both the motor and interior light sense line.
Click to expand...
Hi, Thanks for taking the time to reply. I do not think this is the correct wiring diagram for my FL2! I have a diagram (attached) and as you will see it shows the relay - tailgate unlock. BUT it does not show any voltages or pin outs etc. I have measured the resistance between terminal 1/2 and 1/3 and the resistance is 15ohms - so would take a current of just over 1 amp. Terminals 2/3 is less than 1ohm. But we notice on the diagram there is or could be a PCB inside the unit!

There must be a way to opperate the unit via there 3 terminals.

My lath is part number LR072417


lruk1.jpg
inals
 
Arctic2 said:
So what is happening with the tail gate ?is it not opening at all, is the latch not getting any power to it, can you hear the latch clicking when you press the open door on the fob.

Also have you tried just the rear tail button on the fob on it's own?
LdfvOY8l.jpg
1
Click to expand...
 
The latch has been unreliable for months. My garage replaced the micro-switch as few months ago, then last week the complete latch assembly, which cost me £110 but the fault remains. They could not fix this and did not charge me labour. They suspect a control unit (the unit on the left hadside of the door under a tray) but couldn’t get a wiring diagram from Land Rover to measure outputs etc.

I am now straping the door down but was happy to drive the latch directly from either an external switch or knowing the correct terminals etc via the door micro switc and "cut out" the control unit

Fob and two button on dash do not do anything to opperate the latch.

Thanks
Ken
 
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