skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

As the fan goes, if you can get a 12v source directly across it while it is available out of its housing, give it a go. (perhaps a 12v battery or a battery charger?). As I understand it either of the feeds will do as the speed 1 goes through a resistor (of all things) to keep the speed of the fan down, and the other cable (speed 2) justs gives the fan - "let rip" (as if).

No joy? - no motor

Bulbs melted in console dials = bad. Potentially new dials all round.

Glow Plug lights may just be that most of the warning and etc lights in the instrument panel are shagged too. Enjoy ripping that out and testing.
But at least you only need a pozidriv screwdriver for that.
Bulbs are RTC 3635 about 30p each.

Make shure that all of the printed circuit board and the aligning connector cable plugs are cleaned out and show happy bright copper before re-connecting.

Perhaps a little WD40? (other sprays may be available)

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

When you say:
if you can get a 12v source directly across it while it is available out of its housing,

how much further do i strip it down to have it out of its housing!! i thought i was as far as i would need to go.
I had a live and earth connected to the wires directly from the battery whilst i have the battery on charge in the landy. Damned thing was completely dead this morning.
There is a battery cut off switch mounted on passenger seat front aswell as one for the winch separately. I'm now thinking he did this to stop it dying as he had stereo etc all off a direct live rather than ignition. I now have this on ignition live but it does ofcourse have a direct live for the memory. Another thing i need to sort... why it's being drained.
Figured i will just put a meter on it and disconnect a few things in turn to see if i can sort that once everything is actually working lol.

I am having a good clean up off all terminals i can as i go, with a wire brush etc. Hoping that will sort.

Thanks again. I hate being a pain like this with all the questions but i'm no mechanic or electrician and this is a right mess to put it politely.

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

Sorry for any confusion.

While out of the housing I should have said out of the engine bay / connected to the heater matrix?

sorry

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

No worries.
I did actually do the same directly from the battery whilst still in situ. Still nothing. Did again once out in order to be sure knowing i was going directly to the source.

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

perhaps i should do the same to the heater element on its own and see if it warms up!!

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

Aye,
sounds like shagged fan motor to me as the blades spin freely as in an earlier post

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

hawky666 said:
perhaps i should do the same to the heater element on its own and see if it warms up!!

The heater element (for the cab heater) is water based from the radiator / colant system. Give it a blast with 230v - but stand well back

OOOps no I did not say that did I

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

Noooo please ignore my last post

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

Well, about the 230V bit anyway

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

lol.
when i look inside the it looks like a radiator actually and yes there was water pipes i disconnected so as you say... maybe not lol.

If i blow on the fan hard enough it would probably move. No resistance at all.

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

Think i should change my name to SKINT IDIOT for buying this damned thing.

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

Possible next thing to try for the fan motor would be a multimeter, set on Ohms and see what you get.
Or just say bollox to it and buy !! a replacement

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

Change your name to soon to be very, very skint

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

Oh, as an aside.

If you do do the 230V stuff please have someone video it and then postumously post it.

No, never said that either

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

already there mate.
£2600 to buy it and so far £900 on replacing engine etc with the labour costs. Got stuck in with the guy so i could learn a bit. Best way.
Need new seats as well as all these little bits and a new exhaust next as had a side exit with no silencer and a flexi pipe on it that broke as soon as i touched it.
Looking to go back to full length and have bodged one up to get her home but i just know it will be a pain as its been a 300tdi disco engine put in so all the coupling will be wrong.

God i feel depressed just writing about it.

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

i'm more likely to post pics of it being butchered with a shotgun and pushed over a cliff.
i only say pushed as i probably wont start the damned thing ever again after all this re wiring lol.
Must admit i do keep starting her up to be sure as i'm going.

skint-as-usual · May 23, 2012

And not even started about the lack of rear window wipers and the ****e that can happen with rear window heaters and all their relays and voltage sensitive switches?

Umm

hawky666 · May 23, 2012

i will leave that for when i'm feeling more patient i think. At least the motor appears to be there, and the water jet.
Might get lucky.

Richard Martin · May 23, 2012

I couldn't see an answer to one of the questions in your original post...
the sensor in the middle of the cylinder head is a coolant temp sensor. I think it is only used if you have EDC

hawky666 · May 24, 2012

Thanks Richard.
I'll ignore that one then.

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