power *(12V DC)I'm useless at electrical. I've got an LED work light I've been given and want fit on the Fender. What do I need and how do I fit it. Keep it simple please
earth
switch
nut(s) & bolt(s)
meego
Well-Known Member
Well.....I did say keep it simple
meego
Well-Known Member
Don't know. The yellow writing you see is the only writing on it.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Aahh, never spotted that on my little phone screen.
I'm no expert either but connect it to your battery and see if it works? Has it got 2 wires or 3.
If it's got 2 it's probably DC.
If it don't work try swapping the wires on the battery because led are polarity sensitive.
You won't need a relay for 1 watt.
However, it won't be very bright I wouldn't have thought, so test it first and make sure your happy.
I'm no expert either but connect it to your battery and see if it works? Has it got 2 wires or 3.
If it's got 2 it's probably DC.
If it don't work try swapping the wires on the battery because led are polarity sensitive.
You won't need a relay for 1 watt.
However, it won't be very bright I wouldn't have thought, so test it first and make sure your happy.
doriz
Well-Known Member
Sure you could find a positive feed near the back and add a simple flick switch somewhere - I looked at this and will opt to use a relay so I can get the maximum power to the work light, loads of great tuitions on Uboob about what a relay does etc which I what I did to understand spotlight wiring.
brian47
Well-Known Member
That 1 watt probably refers to the actual electrical spec. If it is just 1W then that's just under an amp at 12 volts. So I would fuse it at 2 Amps.
There is a bit of confusion when specifying LEDs, some quote the actual electrical spec and others quote a value which is "equivalent to".
You'll probably find that it's fairly bright, but don't expect to be able to see any aeroplanes overhead with it.
There is a bit of confusion when specifying LEDs, some quote the actual electrical spec and others quote a value which is "equivalent to".
You'll probably find that it's fairly bright, but don't expect to be able to see any aeroplanes overhead with it.
meego
Well-Known Member
I'm only wanting something for hitching and unhitching the trailor at night.
That'll work, but as Brian says, put an inline fuse holder between the switch and the supply. Is that the switched supply to the side lights? If so, you'll need the sidelights on before the work light will come on - but then you'll probably have them on anyway if you're hitching up in the dark!
private penguin
Well-Known Member
Am I missing something here?
1 Watt = 1 Volt x 1 Amp
So if you've got 12 volts it should be 1/12 of an amp (or a bit less than 0.1amp) surely?
meego
Well-Known Member
My thoughts exactly.
You have lost me. Did you no read the part where I said I know nothing of electrickery
Well spotted that man. However, there appears to be six LEDs in the lamp, so 83mA (1/12 of an amp) / 6 = 14mA each, which sounds a tad low for a white LED - they usually take something like 25mA through them to make them work properly.
So, either their '1W' consumption figure is a bit low, or it's a work light that's been especially designed not to ruin your night vision....
private penguin
Well-Known Member
So essentially:
- No relay needed
- Can be pretty much run off any convenient live feed without presenting a hazard of overloading
- Can use the smallest fuse you can lay your hands on
Does a defender already have the wiring loom in the back for adding a 12S Caravan Socket - in which case there could be a convenient live feed already somewhere at the back. There would be no issue running it from the sidelight feed (but would mean the sidelights have to be on when the worklight is on, perhaps partly defeating the benefit of a low-power LED worklight which wont drain the battery as quickly)
Personally I prefer to have my worklights switched from the cab rather than in the boot - not least because when i forget to turn them off before driving away I dont have to pull over and get out I can just flick the switch. Theres plenty of live feeds in the dashboard area and then its just a case of running a wire from the switch to the worklight, and a wire from the worklight to an earth point.
- No relay needed
- Can be pretty much run off any convenient live feed without presenting a hazard of overloading
- Can use the smallest fuse you can lay your hands on
Does a defender already have the wiring loom in the back for adding a 12S Caravan Socket - in which case there could be a convenient live feed already somewhere at the back. There would be no issue running it from the sidelight feed (but would mean the sidelights have to be on when the worklight is on, perhaps partly defeating the benefit of a low-power LED worklight which wont drain the battery as quickly)
Personally I prefer to have my worklights switched from the cab rather than in the boot - not least because when i forget to turn them off before driving away I dont have to pull over and get out I can just flick the switch. Theres plenty of live feeds in the dashboard area and then its just a case of running a wire from the switch to the worklight, and a wire from the worklight to an earth point.
