ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Does the brake pedal feel normal?
Check the vacuum pipe and pump (pump is on the alternator) plus the non-return valve, that is where the vacuum pipe plugs into the servo body.
Peter
Peter
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Did the calipers retract freely when you changed the pads?
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Do you have ABS? If yes, has somebody taken the bulb out? (it has been known). Could be a problem with the booster.
If non ABS I have known of a Disco with no rear brakes because the bias valve/splitter thing was faulty. Another possibility is a kinked/crushed brake pipe or hose but I guess you would be able to see that.
If non ABS I have known of a Disco with no rear brakes because the bias valve/splitter thing was faulty. Another possibility is a kinked/crushed brake pipe or hose but I guess you would be able to see that.
david451
New Member
It definatly sounds like one of the systems is down, you can clamp the rear flex pipes and drive it "carefully" with front brakes only a short distance someswhere quiet, and see if it still feels the same. A visit to an mot station and a few quid will get it brake tested.
Gets my vote.
At the least it will narrow the range to where exactly the problem is ..
distd5co
New Member
Does any one have anymore input on this appart from putting of rollers as i allready know their is a problem. their is just no bite to the brakes. if i stamp on them the wheels dont lock and even give the abs a chance to start working. but the abs does work on grass oviosly because the wheel locks eaisly. Dan
If the wheels lock easily on grass I suggest the ABS is NOT working.
The ONLY function that ABS is there to do is to stop the wheels from locking.
Remember, a Disco weighs well over TWO TONS, so it doesn't stop like a Mini.
I suggest you go out one evening and do THREE hard stops.
Take her up to about 70, and more or less as hard as you can brake her down to about 10 mph (do NOT stop) then let the brakes off, back up to 70, brake hard down to 10mph, then up to 70, brake hard down to 10mph, then drive at least 15 minutes normal driving but DO NOT STOP if you can help it, and head for home. This will clean the discs and pads, and "condition" them.
As a matter of principle, NEVER hold a Disco stopped with your foot on the brake pedal. The heat of the disc (it could be red hot) will overheat the pads and take heat into the caliper, eventually duffing up seals and fluid.
ALWAYS pull on the handbrake and take your foot off the brake pedal.
CharlesY
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
You know I never thought of that:doh:. You're right though. Trouble is since I started using my handbrake more (didn't use to, as it's an auto) it seems to go out of adjustment very quickly. Is this normal?
Yes ... and it's a pain in the butt.
I am lucky here that I am always parked on the flat, so I do NOT leave it overnight with the handbrake on, which is usually what causes the cable and linkage to stretch. Mine is a manual (sob ...) so I leave it in 1st gear instead. An auto in P is safe enough - the whole transmission is locked-up solid, but NOT if the transfer box in in neutral!
I think you need to "condition" the handbrake linings (and scrape the rust off the inside of the drum too) by applying the handbrake gently but definitely for about 5 seconds (quite a long time that!) while driving at about 15mph.
This will allow the brake linings to FIT to the drum more closely, and take a lot of the slop out of of the system. It is worth doing this once a month or so because usually these brake shoes are never applied to a moving brake drum, unlike ordinary handbrakes. So the drum rusts, and the brake linings end up sitting on a pile of squishy RUST instead of a nice smooth cast-iron drum.
Keep Thinking guys!
CharlesY
