fella31

Active Member
Woo hoo !! Halfords have a sale on Castrol Magnatek engine oil (Diesel). Time for an oil change for both my little beauties, a) 80k on a Disco TD5 and b) 95k on a Disco 300 should I use 10w 40 or 15w 40 ?

Ta

Alex
 
Woo hoo !! Halfords have a sale on Castrol Magnatek engine oil (Diesel). Time for an oil change for both my little beauties, a) 80k on a Disco TD5 and b) 95k on a Disco 300 should I use 10w 40 or 15w 40 ?

Ta

Alex

10w-40, it'll making starting easier.
 
I use 10-40 in my 300tdi, and haven't had a problem, not with the oil anyway's, plenty of landrover problems:D
 
How many times do I have to post this?

Go to your local Agricultural Merchant.
Buy a 20L drum of Ovoline Tractor Universal Oil (10/40).
Save yourself £££ and you'll have exactly the same stuff that you'd pay 3 or 4 times the price for at a motor factors.

It's top quality oil - just packaged and marketed for farmers.
 
This has got me a little..

I too saw this sale at halfords for Magnatek as was going to get a few but went to a near shop and they told me that all im paying for is the name.. and that his 10w40 he had for 5L at 10quid, shurley there carnt be the same... this oil thing just confuses me one set tell me one thing and another tell me another? i want the best for my baby she is only 40 miles from 150,000 Miles on the clock.

Does Magnatek make 40plus quid diffrence or will the cheap stuff do? or even as Treworgey 90 pointed out some Ovoline Tractor Oil, cos at a oil change every 6000 the ovoline shure looks more tempting?

Thanks

Wappy
 
ffs
IT'S THE SAME STUFF, JUST IN A DIFFERENT PACKAGE AND WITH A DIFFERENT BRAND NAME.

comprende?
 
ffs
IT'S THE SAME STUFF, JUST IN A DIFFERENT PACKAGE AND WITH A DIFFERENT BRAND NAME.

comprende?

comprende ;) Just goggled it ... you came up a few times lol... found little more info from other users eg

\Ovoline 531
Olex 5W/30 Super Motor Oil which meets the top spec LR asks for, ACEA A1 and B1, and in every respect is EXACTLY what LR say should be used in the TD5

and from reading other posts so long as i change regularly (every 6000) things should be good;)

how much do you pay for a 20l barrel Treworgey ??

and would 10w40 be ok for a 200TDi?
 
At Halfords it's just over £7 for their own EP 80w90 a ltr where as my local motor parts shop wants just over £3 for Comma EP 80w90 a ltr and for 5 ltr can just under £12.

Also for Halfords own synthetic engine oil 5w40 which i'm using at the moment is £33 for 5 ltrs, but as a promo u get free a decent 36PC 1/4inch socket set worth £30 so that may be a good deal at the moment, only if u are after a small socket set that is.

I have two 5ltr cans of Castrol GTX Magnatec (I don't think that's the same stuff as Castrol Magnatec) cost £6 a can, also 2 of Duckhams Q at 50p a can, I'v had the cans so long the cans are tin but all still unopened.

Is it a good time to sell them and a big profit
 
[10w-40, it'll making starting easier] does that mean 15w 40 is ok in the summer? or should you stay clear of 15w-40 all together
 
[10w-40, it'll making starting easier] does that mean 15w 40 is ok in the summer? or should you stay clear of 15w-40 all together

My advice would be to steer clear of the more old-fashioned 15w-40 altogether.

My reasoning is that disproportionate fuel consumption occurs within the first 5 mins of running an engine, so anything you can do to reduce drag will help. This also applies to engine wear.

I myself run my Tdi 300 on 5w-40 fully synth from Carrefour at 22 euros for 5 litrs. Buy 2 this time, only need one next time (oil fill inc filter is about 6.5ltrs). She starts easier, runs really well, good on juice and quiet.
 
Whats the diffrence between semi sinth and fully sinth?

as i've just been offered 10 liters of 5w40 for 25 quid fully synthetic is that better than 10w50 semi sinth

wappy


Edit __

Answered my own question

Synthetic Base Stocks

Synthetic motor oils have been made from the following classes of lubricants:

* Polyalphaolefin (PAO) = American Petroleum Institute (API) Group IV base oil
* Synthetic esters, etc = API Group V base oils (non-PAO synthetics, including diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, alkyklated benzenes, etc.)
* Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized = API Group III base oils. Chevron, Shell, and other petrochemical companies developed processes involving catalytic conversion of feed stocks under pressure in the presence of hydrogen into high quality mineral lubricating oil. In 2005 production of GTL (Gas-to-liquid) Group III base stocks began. The best of these perform much like polyalphaolefin[citation needed]. Group III base stocks are considered synthetic motor oil in North America[1], but NOT in the European Union.

[edit] Advantages

The technical advantages of synthetic motor oils include:

* Measurably better low and high temperature viscosity performance[citation needed]
* Better chemical & shear stability
* Decreased evaporative loss[citation needed]
* Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown and oil sludge problems
* Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.[citation needed]
* Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.[citation needed]
* Better lubrication on cold starts

[edit] Disadvantages

The disadvantages of synthetic motor oils include:

* Initial costs are usually four times greater than petroleum-based oils, though at one time, man-made oils cost ten times more than petroleum[citation needed]. Initial costs are often mitigated by extended change intervals, which individuals may confirm through used oil analysis (UOA).
* The lower friction may make them unsuitable for break-in (i.e. the initial run-in period of the vehicle) where friction is desirable to cause wear. As many vehicles now use synthetic oils as factory fill, this is less of an issue than it once was.
* Potential decomposition problems in certain chemical environments (industrial use dominantly)
* Potential stress cracking of plastic components like POM (polyoxymethylene) in the presence of PAOs (polyalphaolefins).
* Potential on some older pushrod race engines with roller lifters for the roller itself not to spin with camshaft movement, but rather slide while the roller itself remains either stationary or at a lower circumferential speed than that of the camshaft lobe[citation needed]
* In July 1996, Consumer Reports published the results of a two year motor oil test involving a fleet of 75 New York taxi cabs and found no noticeable advantage of synthetic oil over regular oil[2]. In their article, they noted that "Big-city cabs don't see many cold start-ups or long periods of high speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most common type of severe service - stop-and-go city driving." According to their study, synthetic oil is "worth considering for extreme driving conditions: high ambient temperatures and high engine load, or very cold temperatures." [3] This research was criticized by some because most engine damage appears to be caused by cold starts, and their research method may not have included enough cold starts to be representative of personal vehicle use.[4]

[edit] Semi-synthetic oil

Semi-synthetic oils (also called 'synthetic blends') are blends of mineral oil with no more than 30% synthetic oil. Designed to have many of the benefits of synthetic oil without matching the cost of pure synthetic oil. DELPHI introduced the first semi-synthetic motor oil in 1966.[5]


Now my only question is whats the diffrence between 5w40 and 10w40, and which is best for my landy;)

Answered my own question again lol... i dont know why i post lol lol

i wont post it here but this is the site .. oil explained in laymen's terms

hxxp://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/


.. im off to rip a guys arm off lol lol
 
Whats the diffrence between semi sinth and fully sinth?

as i've just been offered 10 liters of 5w40 for 25 quid fully synthetic is that better than 10w50 semi sinth

wappy


Edit __

Answered my own question




Now my only question is whats the diffrence between 5w40 and 10w40, and which is best for my landy;)

The difference between 5w40 & 10w40 is the viscocity at colder temperatures, w for winter. The practical aspects are that 5w will circulate better at lower temperatures therefore giving more protection more quickly, also due to it's relative thinness, the motor will start easier as there is less drag. The higher figure is the viscocity at operating (therefore higher) temps.

This only works if you are putting in really good quality oils. On most modern engines they have an oil viscocity requirement of 5w30 or even 0w30, which when poured looks like water !!
 
The difference between 5w40 & 10w40 is the viscocity at colder temperatures, w for winter. The practical aspects are that 5w will circulate better at lower temperatures therefore giving more protection more quickly, also due to it's relative thinness, the motor will start easier as there is less drag. The higher figure is the viscocity at operating (therefore higher) temps.

This only works if you are putting in really good quality oils. On most modern engines they have an oil viscocity requirement of 5w30 or even 0w30, which when poured looks like water !!

Hey big its me again!

Reet for me ive just replaced oils filter etc after 3000 mile with 15w/40 is that wrong?

knowing me and my mpg issues do i wan to use a lower viscosity oil? like a 10w/40 or a 5w/40 maybe.

Bear in mind '98 300tdi 111k on the clock auto etc does take a hammerin once a month?

5 or 10 or 15w/40 pray tell o wise one?
 
Hey big its me again!

Reet for me ive just replaced oils filter etc after 3000 mile with 15w/40 is that wrong?

knowing me and my mpg issues do i wan to use a lower viscosity oil? like a 10w/40 or a 5w/40 maybe.

Bear in mind '98 300tdi 111k on the clock auto etc does take a hammerin once a month?

5 or 10 or 15w/40 pray tell o wise one?

Hiya Girve, how are you doing buddy?

I use 5w-40 in my '98Tdi300 auto. I find it helps a bit with starting and assuming you use a good quality oil with the correct rating ie API CE or higher (CF etc) you should be fine.

I use Carrefour 5w-40, it's a semi synth and I change it every 6000kms because I reckon it's cheap, the filters are cheap and enginers are not !! (the old oil is good for soaking fence posts in and starting bonfires - recycling you see !!)

If you used the same approach I can't see any reasons oil-wise why you would have any probs. LR say any oil with a viscocity between 5w-30 and 15w-40.

Keep it clean and you keep it mean !!
 
Hi thebiglad I will be in Carrefore in Calais next month (a cheap day drip from P&O) I should have waited till then to get my oil at only £18 :( A few years ago in Carrefore i got some Mobile1 0w40 at half the price it was in the uk. I thought the oil prices in France matched ours now, wrong again then.

I won't go back to mineral now, so perhaps now I should extended the oil change intervals from 6k to 12k. as the syn oil is still a light brown after 6000 miles not like mineral, black after 1000.

Synthetic has a tendancy to leak out if it can, I had to nip the bolts on the rocker cover and sump to stop the drip otherwise ok.

Regards


Info taken from the can of Halfords oil:

5w40 Fully Syn. For max engine protection under extreme loading or enthusiastic driving. Also suitable for use in the latest turbo diesel engines.
5w30 Part Syn. Suitable for the latest efficience engines including all modern Fords from 1998 on.
10w40 Part Syn. Suitable for most modern multivalve, turbo or fuel injected engines where synthetic protection is essential.
10w40 Enhanced Mineral. Suitable for most fuel injected engines.
15w40 Part Syn. Suitable for most non fuel injected engines since 1980 where synthetic protection is preferred.
15w40 Enhanced Mineral. Suitable for most non fuel injected engines since 1980.
15w50 Basic Mineral Suitable for most pre 1980 vehicles.

Note: "Lower numbers indicate greater fuel efficency for modern cars". it said on the can.
 

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