A

AdamHarley

Member
Hi all,

Been without a Land Rover product for some time and decided I need a Classic. I have a couple of options from work colleages that would like some advice on please?

One is an LSE with 105,000 and lots of history. Still on air, no LPG and in tidy condition but only a few months MOT. Would be c.£1500 but i'm not a huge fan of the LSE preferring the shape. It seems a good buy at this price but am worried about the air suspension.

The other is a 92 Vogue SE in Westminster Grey which has failed its MOT and the owner may now sell. I will be offered first refusal but could use some help with value. Apparently the sills need welding but i don't know how bad, or even if its both sides as haven't yet had a proper look round it. My preference is a Standard car and something i can tinker with. I can't weld though.

Assuming the rest of the Grey one is tidy, what do you think its worth, assuming it needs work on/new sills.

Is the LSE a good price? They seem to range from £1000 to £20,000 online!

Does anyone know a good welder/specialist in the Wiltshire area?

Thanks
 
The Westminister will be a potential money pit I am affraid...once the Rust Worm sets in, you'll be forever chasing it...

Worth without an MOT - if the rest is up to snuff - a few hundred...

If the LSE is straight, maybe the better option....the Wheelbase is the same as the P38, so doesn't look to ungainly....

The EAS system is simple in operation, and if it does go kaput to the point of total complete failure, there is the option of coils (Don't hit me guys - but the Classic on Coils is much better than the P38 on coils so realy isn't a 'downgrade').

The 4.2 litre engine is a decent power unit, but because it wasn't as common as the 3.9 you may not find some of the internal engine parts easily, although the external parts and ancillaries where standard from 3.9 to 4.2....
 
Thanks for the response. I probably need to compare them back to back, at least as much as i can. You're probably right about the rot setting in in the Grey and if it was only minor, the current owner would probably mend it

I'll reconsider the LSE!
 
I agree with Saint.V8. If you are going for a classic then it might be an idea to look around a bit more. Go for very good (if you can find it) chassis and tidy body. I have had four 3.9 Classics and two LSEs. One LSE had had a fire in the heater box and took a year to rebuild and modify ended up as a fabulous car, ideal for the very long trips I have to do (sometimes with the dogs). The extra space was great and I had no real trouble with the air suspension which gave a great ride. Some people find parking a problem. Not me. The last 4.2 was also on LPG and I must say was the most reliable Range Rover I ever had.
 
I would go LSE. If I had the money and you passed on it I would buy the one you mentioned. I have a 84 Vogue which had very good sills and body for rot, take a look at my thread link to see the work, I warn you it might put you off. Once rot sets in its better to treat all of it or on every mot you will wonder which bit it will be next. Check both under the boot carpets and in the wheel arches. If it's there take a closer look at the sills, body mounts, rear cross member, battery trays, headlights.

Good luck.
 
Any RRC built from the time the Disco was introduced ('89) seems to suffer the tin-worm more than the earlier model years, so Stutab's comments make sense & I've experienced the same variation in my own purchases over the years. Some 4.2 specific engine spares are no longer listed, probably due to the model's short production run & I'm fairly sure that sills for the LSE are no longer available. Based on personal experience I would not put LPG on any 94mm bore RV8 as there is some evidence that the higher combustion chamber temperature can increase the chance of the dreaded liner slip syndrome. No doubt others will post their disagreement, but you would be well advised to study the subject before deciding.
 
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Just one more thought. If LSE then look at the rear doors as they are longer than standard and being heavier tend to sag. Watch when you open a rear door to see if it drops a little. Also they do tend to rot at the bottom. So run a gloved hand over the inside bottom of the rear door. Gloved because it they are rusting badly you could cut your hand.
 
If you want a look at another LSE for comparison I can't be too far away. Drop me a line.
I'm biased but I much prefer the longer wheel base even though usually I drive it on my own.
Alternatively if you don't go for it let me have the details please.
Thanks
 
Thanks for all the replies, comments and advice. It seems the LSE would appear to be the better bet, assuming that on a fuller inspection all is decent. The owner had a new viscous coupling fairly recently which cost him a bucket load of cash and a few electrical niggles, all now sorted apparently, apart from htd seats and elec mirrors.

As it would only be a weekend car (lucky enough to have a company car with tow bar), i am not thinking of LPG, neither is the size itself an issue. It would be nice to see if it would fit in my garage though!

Are LSE's worth any more than a Classic, or is it some dealers chancing their arm with daft prices? I saw a 55000 mile LSE on Ebay recently. The best bid was £750 odd.

I'll let you know if i don't go for it. It's blue with dark tan leather by the way. Nice combo.
 
lse is all wrong...lines are spoilt..just wrong..ugly..(not worth any more either..its lack of rot that counts)
 
zen said:
lse is all wrong...lines are spoilt..just wrong..ugly..(not worth any more either..its lack of rot that counts)
Click to expand...
Longer is better. Ask any........erm......one.

I drover 5 people and one 70 pound dog over 500 miles for the Christmas family gathering in crappy conditions. By crappy I mean above 10,000 ft. in a snow storm. The long wheel base shines in the snow. I know because I was stuck in the middle of three jeeps and the LSE had them whooped. It also tows trailer in a more stable manner.
 
stopover said:
Also they do tend to rot at the bottom. So run a gloved hand over the inside bottom of the rear door. Gloved because it they are rusting badly you could cut your hand.
Click to expand...

A good tip for any doors is to wait for quiet conditions (ie no passing traffic) & then open & slam the door, not so hard as to annoy the owner though & listen carefully. If the frame or window channels etc. are rotting you will hear the rust falling into the door bottom, a very common sound with RRC's.
 
As expected, different opinions! I think the lack of rot will determine the decision. Cheers though guys, will keep you posted!
 
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