I'm just planning on using the old one as a template then making up a loom like for like colours as well. I'll also be adding wires for work lamps etc then wrap it all up in a proper conduit
 
I've decided to put mine back through the new chassis. What about wiring the lamps in along side, rather than creating a whole new harness?
 
Do you not have the original harness that you took out?

Not took it out yet but will replace it anyway, trailer light cable sees like a good idea as its cheap and I've used it before to rewire rear lights. It should push through the chassis easy as well it being pretty stiff:)

I was wondering about the 12 strand stuff and is it as thick as the 7 core stuff
 
When me and bro did my s11a rebuild with new galv chassis we made our own loom up but basicly we ran it from front bulkhead down and along the top of the chassis ( cable tied ) till we got to where the rear bulkhead would be then up the rear bulkhead to a junction box then from the junction box through the rear bulkhead up to and through the trunking that is behind the rear seats then to the rear O/S/R lights then a spure off to the rear N/S/R lights that went round the rear door as though to speak but hidden in the metal part of the roof that goes round the rear door and a spure off from the loom down to the tow plug.

it was done that way as for when we did river crossings when green laning so the only bit that would give any prob's woild be from the tow plug but I never had any up to when I sold it a five years later :)
 
Sorry mate, no idea as to how the 12 core compares to the seven core, but you would expect it to be thicker.
 
Sorry mate, no idea as to how the 12 core compares to the seven core, but you would expect it to be thicker.

I know the cable will be thicker but was wondering if the wires in the cable are the same load rating (if that's the correct term) nothing big to power up only lights, no heated screen.
Could run a heavy cable along with it in case heated screen is needed at some point. Would like it inside the chassis though:)
 
What did you do about the wiring that runs down inside the chassis?

I was thinking of using 12 core caravan cable to a junction box under the rear tub then taking 7 core cable to each side from that,

Any suggestions please?

Ta:)

Like this stuff
VWP - multicore cable



.

I'd not use caravan cable for this, I pulled mine out, un-loomed it added some extra wires for additional items in the future, also changed some things to suit my LR like removed some factory plugs and wires and ran them right out to the end for additional wires or if I even had a short I could use another without much hassle.

I then loomed it all with a spiral of good electrical tape before inserting the lot into split corrugated conduit which was also taped every foot or so. Ran it back in and job done.

The reason I don't condone the use of caravan cable is that in order to use the original plugs (which keep the bulkhead end quite neat) you need to cut them and join them all, you have now added a weak point.

Caravan cable is bunched up and as the main power harness could under certain circumstances warm up or overheat it could then damage more than just the single. Loom cable wire has a sheath that is better suit to higher temperatures and is happy to be out in the open elements, caravan cable is designed to come out of a plug into another sealed socket or junction box, it's usually not oil proof either.

Cable is a science all of its own.
 
I know the cable will be thicker but was wondering if the wires in the cable are the same load rating (if that's the correct term) nothing big to power up only lights, no heated screen.
Could run a heavy cable along with it in case heated screen is needed at some point. Would like it inside the chassis though:)

Or double the cores up, If there's enough spares that is.
 
You'd have to be careful which cores to use, 12 core caravan stuff all the cores are not the same, some are lighter than others because some are only used for lighting, whereas others used to power the fridge/provide 12V power etc.

personally id do it properly, youd think with it being stiff it would be easier to feed thru, but in reality it isnt, you usually end up with a slight curl in the cable where its been on the reel, and being stiff with just catch all the time.

spend a fiver and get a draw tape form a leccy wholesalers, will save huge amounts of ballache.
Just looked, a 10m draw tape is just over £3.50.
 
Lots of advice/suggestions and I am now undecided.

Wires are going black inside old loom but its ok otherwise.

If I use caravan cable I will wire it straight to fuse box and a junction box at the back will be far better than landy connectors.

I will be going through the chassis so thanks for the tips on that.

What to do ??
:)
 
Wanted to replace my 200's wiring loom on chassis change but ran out of money so ran my wiring over the top of the chassis as I will have to replace it, also my galv chassis has sharpe edges on the cable run holes so thought it was a bad idea anyway.
 
For those running along the chassis, I'm not sure how it happened but years ago I was in a land rover as a passenger on the way back from Essex to Manchester. On the M6 we suddenly heard a big noise and so pulled over. Found the loom had become disconnected from the chassis (it was run along top too), and got caught on the prop shaft (Not sure how much slack it had....apparently quite a bit) and pulled it from both the front and the back. Ended up getting towed back.

At the time I thought "What a stupid design", obviously now I know it was a mod, rather than factory.

Something to be aware of and careful of....
 

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