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DerekT

Active Member
Having had ABS & TC lights showing for a while and seen recent posts re wheel bearings, thought I'd better check mine. :eek:

Both offside have considerable play and nearside rear some play. Looking at manual, much is made of selecting the correct depth of spacer with float guage etc, when replacing bearings, is this necessary? I do not have access to such a guage or a supply of different spacers.
I have searched previous posts and some suggested that play could be lessened by re-tightening hub bolt. JM was not impressed with that idea!

Also how easy to do? Presently the defender is my only transport.( Back-up Ford Focus failed MOT miserably - rear suspension bushes all seized - in bits waiting for parts to arrive, very common according to main dealer - so its not just landrovers that have known weaknesses?!)

Follow-on question, where to get new bearings from, or NOT? Some better than others?
 
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you need to sort or they will cause you some damage, or worse still the vehicle. I left one too long and it siezed just for a secound but it was enough to drag me across the road at 50 mph frightned the be jaysus out of me.
i have done a few on my td5 90 and havent had to renew the spacer & try to replace with timkin and torque the locknut back on. weld a half inch socket into the back of your box spanner then you can torque.
 

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the wheel bearings on a td5 are the same as earlier bearings(literally) ,earlier bearings where adjusted by feel ie freeplay removed and nut held with lock washer and another nut wound up tight to it (some nuts for bearings use split pins ),td5 use a spacer so that an idiot can fit and tighten bearings without setting freeplay or preload as you just tigthen nut up against spacer,if bearings are renewed spacer may not be correct for those bearings ,but if you use timken bearings the chances are it will be correct,check by feeling hoe hub turns or if it still has free play ,you would struggle to get rid of freeplay if that was the case as spacer wont crush,but could be replaced or ground down a little squarely
 
Thanks James, spot-on info as ever, will get new bearings ordered tomorrow. Pat, yes, that was my concern having read a recent post. Need to do a 300 mile round trip this weekend so will try and get the worst offenders replaced before that. The first problem I face is actually getting the wheels off. The impact wrenches used by tyre fitters are far more effective that my wheel brace!
 
All you need is a 27 mm socket & if they are that tight get an extensionbar normally about a foot long and gives you more leverage, if you havent done wheel bearings before dont rush it because of your trip.
Take it steady you will get a better result.
 

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The wheel nuts are a problem that has come back to haunt me! Should have done something about it before when I put new calliper and pads on front O/S. Was going to change pads on N/S but could not get the nuts off. Tried socket with tommy bar, then used 6ft scaffold pole extension. - Bent tommy bar, broke socket and gave up!! Ah well, will try again....
 
Continuing saga: Managed my 300 mile round trip but towards the end getting really bad clunking when taking foot off power. Yes, you've guessed! Its not just the wheel bearings.. Checked under when taking wheel off, (after using scaffold pole as tommy bar) looks like the front prop shaft CV joint has shattered. Take it I will be OK just to remove prop meantime, carry on with the wheel bearings and get the motor back on the road until CV joint arrives? :(
 
DerekT said:
Continuing saga: Managed my 300 mile round trip but towards the end getting really bad clunking when taking foot off power. Yes, you've guessed! Its not just the wheel bearings.. Checked under when taking wheel off, (after using scaffold pole as tommy bar) looks like the front prop shaft CV joint has shattered. Take it I will be OK just to remove prop meantime, carry on with the wheel bearings and get the motor back on the road until CV joint arrives? :(
Click to expand...

do you mean front prop u/j
 
Yep, the Universal Joint! Finally managed to get it off, now running 2 wheel Drive with Difflock on.
Further question, noticed a slight oil weep at front diff oil seal where prop shaft connected, is it an easy enough job to replace this seal why I am at it?
 
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