jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
spacer is ok as long as its correct one for your new bearings ,if you use timken it should be, but check theres no play but doesnt feel like theres too much load ,torque setting isnt vital as long as nuts tight
wickford90
Well-Known Member
Are the spacers numbered or marked, some time ago i replaced front bearings with Timken, and no play assumed all was ok, then a few months later while working on brakes I noticed some play in the bearing?, after stripping it down and replacing again With Timken, the old bearings and races all looked perfect and still packed with grease when removed.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
just measure and get next size down or whatever excess play is
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
do they come with a variety of spacers?
Im stlll unsure how you get the correct one?
bearings dont come with spacers ,there are a variety to choose from, you start with the one youve got
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
non abs top kit tar100040 ,bottom 60666,remember you dont need to remove bottom pin
Oops
Its stripped right down to the axle tube now, will clean it all tomorrow and refit in the afternoon after ive been to craddocks.
Thanks for the part numbers James.
Im worried about the wheel bearings, im still not sure about the spacer thing.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
why ,just use the one you have ,a try it for play and feel if it seems too tight
Having never done a wheel bearing before let alone one that needs to be shimmed im a little worried.
Ive already printed off exploded diagrams so i put it all back together right. lol.
edwardcraney2012
Active Member
We always convert to the early set up at work, easier should they need adjusting in future only downside is it isn't quite as quick to refit it the hubs been removed just for access like a disc, but all other times I would recommend the old set up save clarting about with spacers.
I think i should have done a poll!
Too be honest the bearings that i removed are in top condition, the grease is still see through and isnt contaminated. There less than 6 months old so im going to keep them.
I have ordered a quite expensive 52mm socket now as well so i need to make use of it
Too be honest the bearings that i removed are in top condition, the grease is still see through and isnt contaminated. There less than 6 months old so im going to keep them.
I have ordered a quite expensive 52mm socket now as well so i need to make use of it
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
how was you going to set bearings with the 2 nuts ?
wickford90
Well-Known Member
Oops
Its stripped right down to the axle tube now, will clean it all tomorrow and refit in the afternoon after ive been to craddocks.
Thanks for the part numbers James.
Im worried about the wheel bearings, im still not sure about the spacer thing.
Wouldnt worry too much, i have done it a couple of times and im far from being a mechanic, put it back as it came out, pack it with grease. You have the diagrams as James said use Timken bearings and spacer should be fine. Good luck,
i have a torque wrench thingy ma wotsit.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
thats not much use if setting the 2 nut earlier type ,and not vital for spacer type but since you have it you may as well use it ,torque setting doesnt effect bearing setting
ah no true.
I had read about tightening inner bearing then slacking off quarter turn. Then wizzing the outer right up tight and folding over the washer tab.
Or something similar.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
for the earlier 2 bearing type i wouldnt follow that advice ,you just tighten inner nut till freeplay is just removed after first nipping nut up to seat bearings then slackening,tightening outer tight then add just enough load to bearings ,whic is why they use spacer so all you have to do is tighten 1 nut ,but in my experience its wise to check bearings then do feel ok
When i get my head round the later type i will be putting wheel back on and wobbling it left right and centre before i put my tools away.
