I have a crack in my exhaust pipe. It's a stainless system I fitted at the end of 2012 so it's coming up to 13 years old. It's in the tail section, which is, fortunately, the bit of the old exhaust which is still intact.
I jacked it up by the chassis to let the axle droop and cut the bolts off, and the old one came out easily:
There's the crack. Also fortunately, the two pipes had the join in exactly the same position with the same pattern of bolt holes, despite being from different manufacturers. So everything went back together easily.
One of those Land Rover jobs that you think is going to be fairly quick and actually does turn out to be fairly quick and easy. Doesn't happen often.

Yes I know, I've used nyloc nuts on an exhaust pipe. They were the only 10mm nuts I could find in the shed this morning. They're some distance away from the engine so are unlikely to burst into flames!

Here's the cat keeping a close eye on me as he relaxes in the back yard:

That can be TIG'd cant it ?

tilly2 said:

That can be TIG'd cant it ?

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I was just going to say that a mate had a stainless V8 RR system crack on him, in several places.

He drilled the ends to stop them spreading then got me to come over and weld them up with my stainless mig wire. Took the whole system off the car, put it on trestles, welded all the cracks back up, put it back on.

He never had another problem with it.

I guess stainless IS more prone to cracking.

tilly2 said:

That can be TIG'd cant it ?

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I suppose in theory yes. The question in my mind is whether it would be worth it, seeing as the part in question is on sale everywhere and reasonably priced. If it were off something like an Armstrong Siddeley or Alvis Grey Lady I'd do so, of course!

As a few members seem to be asking about prices I thought I might have a look to catch up .

Now I found 1 for @dag019

Its interesting to see what peeps are asking and think they are sitting on a goldmine.
Most are just pretty pics on the top, not the greasey underneath that we all like.

J

Brown said:

I suppose in theory yes. The question in my mind is whether it would be worth it, seeing as the part in question is on sale everywhere and reasonably priced. If it were off something like an Armstrong Siddeley or Alvis Grey Lady I'd do so, of course!

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In your second photo, is that part with the soot on it a bracer from the box to the pipe ? If so, that suggests they could be prone to cracking at that bend and that’s an attempt to stop it.

meego said:

In your second photo, is that part with the soot on it a bracer from the box to the pipe ? If so, that suggests they could be prone to cracking at that bend and that’s an attempt to stop it.

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It's got those on the underside of the pipe at each silencer. I assumed they were there to stop the edges of the silencers catching on high ground. However, I've not scraped the exhaust on the ground in 13 years of ownership, so those Lode Lane engineers got something right in the first place. The exhaust itself was a Janspeed one, which in 2012 was being offered as a stainless alternative to the factory pipe.

Brown said:

It's got those on the underside of the pipe at each silencer. I assumed they were there to stop the edges of the silencers catching on high ground. However, I've not scraped the exhaust on the ground in 13 years of ownership, so those Lode Lane engineers got something right in the first place. The exhaust itself was a Janspeed one, which in 2012 was being offered as a stainless alternative to the factory pipe.

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That makes more sense eh. Could serve for both purposes actually.
Stainless can get brittle after a while, hence the reason it’s not recommended for some bolt types. Towing equipment for example, but I’m sure you knew that already

Yes I think it's just heating and cooling and vibration over 13 years that's done it. Yes indeed, there's certainly been a lot of discussion on Landyzone about how stainless is not recommended for loadbearing bolts.