90truckcab

Well-Known Member
right, as some of you may kno, apart from my 90 truck cab, i now have a rather tatty but classic, well loved series 2a 88" pickup. in need of restoration, so as of the last couple of weeks i have been slowly been getting stuck in to a bit of work ,

hears a few pics of the work so far ;)

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right, as some of you may kno, apart from my 90 truck cab, i now have a rather tatty but classic, well loved series 2a 88" pickup. in need of restoration, so as of the last couple of weeks i have been slowly been getting stuck in to a bit of work ,

hears a few pics of the work so far ;)

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i dont suppose that the 2a that's been sat in a garden just down the road from me for the past 3 years is it ?

approx ere on the map ish

gnosall - Google Maps
 
i dont suppose that the 2a that's been sat in a garden just down the road from me for the past 3 years is it ?

approx ere on the map ish

gnosall - Google Maps


might be , ;) took some gerrin off him too, were a good lad, just got him self an ex mod 90 rag top.

series is in need of a galv chassis tho:doh: like usual.

and yes will be keeping it on the 2.25 petrol , gulp :eek:
 
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might be , ;) took some gerrin off him too, were a good lad, just got him self an ex mod 90 rag top.

series is in need of a galv chassis tho:doh: like usual.

and yes will be keeping it on the 2.25 petrol , gulp :eek:

i've driven past that about 4 times a week for the last 4 ish years, I've even knocked on his door a few times to enquire about it but there's never been anyone in - and then a week or so ago it'd gone !

i'm glad it's been rescued, it was starting to look very sorry for it's self
 
i've driven past that about 4 times a week for the last 4 ish years, I've even knocked on his door a few times to enquire about it but there's never been anyone in - and then a week or so ago it'd gone !

i'm glad it's been rescued, it was starting to look very sorry for it's self


yeah i were doing a job in moreton fer bout 2 years and it looked worse every time i drove past, got hold of him in the end, cost me a few quid tho, way more than i wanted to pay :doh: considering the state of it.

tis a lot of work , like always.

trailered it home end of jan, dont really think he wanted to part with it, come from a place up bolton way, originaly ex mod, got bit of tatty paper work with it , last "mot" in 97? ( doubtfull)
 
cost me a few quid tho, way more than i wanted to pay :doh: considering the state of it.

how much did you give for it ?

to be fair from your pictures it does look in a lot better condition than i was expecting - you should have that on the road in a couple of weeks :)
 
how much did you give for it ?

to be fair from your pictures it does look in a lot better condition than i was expecting - you should have that on the road in a couple of weeks :)


;) might book it in fer MOT next month, never kno mate ! thers no rush tho, i want this one spot on , think it was saved just in time, as another year or so bad weather on the bulk head would of seen it off, chassis is shot, ally has started to corrode underneath the rear tub, all as you would expect from an old one of its age, roof has seen better days, full of dents like a bomb has gone off in the cab. all in all a good start to a project,
 
tonight ah got the pistons out , earlier compression tests were showing a distinct lack of compression in pot 2 & 3 , , the compression rings (top ring) were gummed up on both pistons, but as a set they are in really good condition, with no wear, as i recon this is a REME based workshop rebuild, bout mid '60s , prob only done 10k since.

so working from bottom of block facing up, dead centre of 1 & 3 , remove nuts 9/16 AF push down pistons and remove from bottom keeping together in sets, and stamping with number stamps for later rebuilding. then do 2 & 4, but rotate engine to give clearance to work, chech shells too for wear at this point? white metal is in good condition, brass showing thru, worn , steel , with deep scoring , er........ nackered !

this set had seen very little use, nevermind wear of any kind !

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to check condition of rings, i carefully removed the top ( compression ) ring, placed in corresponding bore, ie, piston 1's ring in bore 1, then put piston on top to make sure ring was in bore square, removed piston , then check gap in ring, mine were 0.025, check acceptable tollerences with the workshop manual ! i concider it to be a good set of rings, but i might still change them later on . before i rebuild the engine.
 
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were home early tonight so decided to take the valves out of the head,

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yers can use one of either a g clamp type or lever action valve compressor !

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but thats a pain in the arse, so all yer need to do is line up a plug socket or larger socket 22mm etc on the washer of the valve, with one fast action , a clean blow to the socket with a medium sized hammer, will be enough to shock the collets out fron the top of the valve stem, this releases the valve from the head, with out damaging anything/

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always keep all the valves in order of removal , as they need to go back in the same positions, unless they are replaced.

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dint feel like doing much tonight so i cleaned the head back to bare metal , looks beter for it,

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as i had the air grinder out with the wire wheel on , thort i might as well do a few other bits that were rusty , come up well really considering the state of them to start with.

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if yer use wire wheels the right way , they do a good clean job, as good as shot blasting most of the time.
 
yer but when you have been using them for hour after hour and they eventually fall apart. and those little metal hairs get everywere
 
yeah , ther a consumable after all, just throw it away and use a new one.
yer right tho the wires do get everywhere, all in yer overalls, in yer hair,

have started to clean the block down to bare metal tonight, lookin good, pics to come.
 
right, as quick as i have been cleaning the block and bits of casing and pump , its been rusting just as quickly !

so i wire brushed them all fer one last time and masked off all the flats on the casting fer gaskits etc and give it a good quality red lead primer.

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then while that were drying in the sun, i tested the thermostat !

hears how its done if yers interested.

if its removed and stuck open , dump it and fit a new one when rebuilding.

but if it looks ok, put it in a pan of cold water, then with a thermomiter heat the water, taking note of the temp as the stat opens and closes with the heating and cooling of the water ,
easy eh :)

if it dont seem to open and close fully its well worth replacing , rather than messing with it.

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this is a standard wax type thermostat. the odd alcohol type turns up in series models ocasionaly , if replacing make sure one of the same type is used.
 

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