crossa

crossa

New Member
Breif recap:-
P38 4.6 blowing steam out of exhaust and using water.
Got the heads skimmed and tested. Put the heads back on twice using new bolts and gaskets as I was not sure I had torqued them down right the first time.
Anyway it is still blowing steam out of the exhaust but not using a lot of water. I have pressure tested the cylinders and these ranged from 180-200lbs.
So I took the exhaust off and there was water in that along with rust sloshing about.
I can t take the car for a drive as it is sorn'd and does not have an MOT.
So I bought a new front the back exhaust system to including cats and manifolds. Finally got around to putting that on yesterday at first there was no steam, once it got hot the steam started (lots of steam).
It really looks like something is cracked and is expanding when hot.
I could spend a fortune on new heads only to find out it is something in the block. The top hose also feels harder than it should when the engine is running but there is no bubbles in the expansion tank.

Has anyone got any idea how much I would get scrap for the P38. As I cant afford or justify a replacement engine.
 
Hi,

What is 'not a lot of water', does it need topping up for example after only a short time?

I have a classic 3.9 so we share something in that the blocks I believe are the same just different cylinder sizes.

Is the system getting hot enough, just mine produces an awful lot of steam / water vapour especially at first, and water does tend to lie in the exhaust system? Remember these engines are burning a lot of fossil fuel at any time so you are going to get a lot of water vapour / steam.

I have heard tales of cracked heads / blocks but you don't have bubbles? Hoses are not 'too' hard? What does the temperature gauge say?

If water is passing from the cooling system into exhaust gases then it has to be in the combustion chambers. That means heads or cylinders...is there creamy sludge in the oil? Check the dipstick / cap.

Be careful not to assume the worst...it may be that standing around water has gathered in the exhaust.

Hope this helps
 
Look at the spark plugs, if one looks washed clean then you have water hetting into that cylinder.
 
magicol said:
Hi,

What is 'not a lot of water', does it need topping up for example after only a short time?
Click to expand...

As mad as this sounds the level was normal when I started the car yesterday. Today I went to check and there was still pressure in the water as I released the expansion tank cap the water overflowed and is now right at the top of the epansion tank.

magicol said:
Is the system getting hot enough, just mine produces an awful lot of steam / water vapour especially at first, and water does tend to lie in the exhaust system? Remember these engines are burning a lot of fossil fuel at any time so you are going to get a lot of water vapour / steam.
Click to expand...

Yep I can leave it running for 1/2hour or more and it never overheats but does reach normal temp.

magicol said:
If water is passing from the cooling system into exhaust gases then it has to be in the combustion chambers. That means heads or cylinders...is there creamy sludge in the oil? Check the dipstick / cap.
Click to expand...

No real sludge in the oil cap and none in the oil checked via the dip stick
 
Datatek said:
Look at the spark plugs, if one looks washed clean then you have water hetting into that cylinder.
Click to expand...

Did that when I pressure tested the cylinders and they were ok.
Also when I changed the manifolds all tghe exhaust ports where dirty where I would have expected at least one the have been steamed cleaned.
 
oh dear .......... don't want to be the voice of doom and gloom here but ....
I had the same, even the expansion pot filling up thing, had the heads off, skimmed them, new head gaskets etc etc ...... , drove it around for a few weeks like that then POOOOOF .... it all let go at 70 mph on the motorway, slipped liners, no compression, new block.

Got a block from Turners Engineering - had a lot of discussion with them about it and seems its more the norm rather than a one off.....

Once the new block was in I immediately forgot all the grief and drove it around for many more happy years until the fuel price finally got me - swapped it for an oil burner ........
 
I have go some k-seal Im going to put that in and see it that at least gives me time to get it MOT's and then I will have to trade in in I think. or as I previously said just scrap it.
 
before you put kseal in, is the steam the only symptom? if its not running bad or down on power, it could be fine....
You said its SORN right? if you're just running it (idling) on your drive, there's going to be a lot of water around from combustion, and the exhaust might not be hot enough to keep it vapourised.
esp. true I think if you drive happens to be on a bit of a slow (front down).

besides, don't think you can fail MOT for emitting water vapor. thats good emissions :)
 
Yep loads of smoke, enough for me to have to consider running it when the neighbours don't have back door open or they could end up poached in their own house.
 
OK, does sound like there's a real problem :-(
if there's water getting from the coolant into the exhaust, must be via the cylinders, so would expect oil/water emulsion visible in oil filler hole.
 
why don't you replace with a 3.9 or 4.0 , really is a simple conversion . If you can do heads you can do this , honest .
 
crossa said:
I could and I would but from what i can see a replace engine will cost £700-£1000
Click to expand...

an old classic will only cost a few hundred as you only need the motor a few other bit's buy a complete rangy sell bit's left over . cost should'nt be that much .
 
water can enter cylinders thru inlet manifold crack ,head crack,blocks are prone for cracking near a head bolt hole usually behind liner but usualy gives presurisation of cooling system ,block can be checked but needs heads off plus front cover with front and rear water ways blocking off on block face and plate made with tyre valve fitted ,fill both side of engine which arent linked in the block but thru inlet manifold with water trefably hot and pressurise engine banks in turn if block cracked water will eventually seep up between liner and block
 
I have replaced the inlet manifold, I suspect that your point about the block cracking near a bolt could be correct. That will I suspect be would mean a new block anyway.
 
they are basically 3.5 block with 200 thou bored out to fit larger liner 3.9,4.2 ,4,and 4.6 all having same liner leaves bolck weaker
 
Hi, Im going through this as-well, checking heads at work and re-skimming, presure testing heads at 4bar. Anyone got advice about setting up the heads to do the skimming, im thinking of setting up on adjustable angle-plate fixing down using rocker cover surface and using tappet rail holes to secure. Can anybody elaberate on using a 3.9 block as a re-placement for my 4.0 (as i think mine is cracked)realise crankshaft sensor needs fitting or can this be by-passed or fooled.
 
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