andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Remove switch and it easily pops apart. One contact will be burnt, it puts the brake lights on but also gives a signal to the electrickery (not sure which module). When the contacts get pitted the wetting current for the electronics is insufficient to overcome the high resistance contact where as the brake light current does.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Yes - simples Also- this says it better than I could !!!
Brake Pedal Switch
The brake pedal switch is a double contact mechanical switch, mounted at the top of the
brake pedal adjacent the brake pedal sensor. The switch (C0075) is provided an ignition
feed from fuse 2 of the passenger compartment fuse box (C0580) on a G wire. When the
brake pedal is at rest, the switch (C0075) provides a feed to the ABS ECU (C0501) on a GR
wire. When the brake pedal is pressed, the switch (C0075) informs the ABS ECU (C0501)
by providing a feed on a GP wire.
When the brake pedal is pressed, the switch (C0075) also provides a feed to the following
on GP wires:
The LH brake lamp (C0121).
The RH brake lamp (C0125).
The Centre High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) (C0613).
Brake Pedal Switch
The brake pedal switch is a double contact mechanical switch, mounted at the top of the
brake pedal adjacent the brake pedal sensor. The switch (C0075) is provided an ignition
feed from fuse 2 of the passenger compartment fuse box (C0580) on a G wire. When the
brake pedal is at rest, the switch (C0075) provides a feed to the ABS ECU (C0501) on a GR
wire. When the brake pedal is pressed, the switch (C0075) informs the ABS ECU (C0501)
by providing a feed on a GP wire.
When the brake pedal is pressed, the switch (C0075) also provides a feed to the following
on GP wires:
The LH brake lamp (C0121).
The RH brake lamp (C0125).
The Centre High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) (C0613).
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
I did start taking the brake switch apart - took the lower outer casing off and caught the spring. Then struggled a short while trying to figure out how to remove the plunger from the switch slider and then decided that the best chance of a good, reliable result was to plumb to opt for a new switch!
bearmach:
Only a few quid on eBay and yes, the two amigos appear to have been dispatched
bearmach:
Only a few quid on eBay and yes, the two amigos appear to have been dispatched
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
You can't give in! Strip old one, clean contacts and keep as a spare!!!
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Not the Freelander, but MGF - cleaning contacts on a heated rear window switch - the rear fog is the same bar the switch graphic. Very similar to a number of Freelander switches too!
after cleaning off green oxidised copper “goo”:
Then after polishing and a light spray with Krown rust proofing oil:
Works perfectly now and hopefully will do so for some years to come
after cleaning off green oxidised copper “goo”:
Then after polishing and a light spray with Krown rust proofing oil:
Works perfectly now and hopefully will do so for some years to come
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Brill, you can do the brake light switch now too!!
The black gunge in switches is weird. Copper based growth I think. I had some in my wiper switch and it started to smoke!!
The black gunge in switches is weird. Copper based growth I think. I had some in my wiper switch and it started to smoke!!
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Just a question... Is rust proofing necessary on copper?? Is oil on electrical contacts a good thing?
Just wondering!
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Could you not sleep!?!?
