Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 27, 2014

• #1

Tub strip down today.

I've got new rear quarter panels to go in

new floor, top hats etc and galv cappings to go on later.

Question is, the aluminium corrosion on the inner wings where the seats and belts bolt through are quite corroded.

I think it will be impossible to get it rubbed down completely to shiny aluminium.
Could I get the worst out then;
a) etch prime it and bond a new aluminium patch over using sikafelx
b) body filler it smooth and bond patch of aluminium over it

or do something else? I don't know of any corrosion inhibitor for the ali

I've got a new rear door skin that I am using for replacement patches.

Any suggestions for the best way forward?

 

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 27, 2014

• #2

There are a lot more spot welds than I had anticipated

Under the corner capping and across the centre of the quarter panel.

Do you leave the ones under the corner capping and replace the ones across the rear quarter panel with pop rivets?

I'll hang on a while, to see if there is anyone on at the moment who has done this, before I drill them all out.

 

top drive

Well-Known Member

• Sep 27, 2014

• #3

I ended up going with the yrm repair panels for the front end of the tub, seatbelt mount and the top. Sikaflex and brush on paintable seal sealer will be my friend i think.

Wont be factory but im building something for fun and rtvs not concourse....

Plus one for all the spot welds , drove me nuts .

 

W

wermy

Member

• Sep 27, 2014

• #4

The tub on mine was it's original 86 model and had been used with an LPG tank so had many holes cut in it. I looked at the cost of the YRM floor as all the ribs and floor were rotten. I read up and there are just so many spot welds you end up with rivets everywhere.

When I did the sums I got to £400 for the floor alone and hadn't even sorted the rest of the problems. I ended up buying a tub off an 06 model doublecab. It was not much dearer and all I had to do was swap the lot over a weekend.

I found one advantage with the pickup tub in that it has a bulkhead which now holds the spare. That then means that the new rear door from SP does not need to be broken by the spare, nor does it crash around on the floor.

 

Last edited: Sep 27, 2014

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 27, 2014

• #5

That's a good idea, but I've bought the bits now.

I think I'll be happy with an extra row of pop rivets along the middle of the rear quarter panels. Unless someone on here tells me Sikaflex will be strong enough to bond the end of the wheel arches to the back of them.

I'm hoping Sikaflex will do along the bottom edge where there are spot welds, as the panels are bolted to the cross member there too.

 

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #6

Decided to use brute force to get quarter panels off. Worked a treat, compare to yesterday's tentative go at the job.

The new panels do not fit, they are about an inch too high.

you can see the bottom of the panel is about half an inch above edge of that cross member and it should be half an inch below it. also, the curve of the wing does not line up

They are part numbers STC1854 & 1855. I'm thinking that these numbers are for a series 90 or some other model. James, I hope you read this

 

Last edited: Sep 28, 2014

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #7

the parts seem to be the right ones according to paddocks

so, i lay the old ones over new ones to compare

this side section is nearly an inch longer and fits up against the square corner of the inner wheel arch

this is making it sit an inch too high

 

bluehaze

Well-Known Member

• Sep 29, 2014

• #8

I agree, they are probably off a series.

 

top drive

Well-Known Member

• Sep 29, 2014

• #9

Surely if it were off a series the lights would both be up top no ?

 

G

GATSO

Well-Known Member

• Sep 29, 2014

• #10

remove the extended bit by drilling the spot welds and scoring the alli a good few times so as to be able to fold away the offending piece shud fit ok then ,rgards gatso

 

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 30, 2014

• #11

GATSO said:

remove the extended bit by drilling the spot welds and scoring the alli a good few times so as to be able to fold away the offending piece shud fit ok then ,rgards gatso

Click to expand...

Will do exactly that. Spoke to supplier who thought a replacement might be the same, so I think I'll go with modifying it rather than get into sending parts back and forth.