deltacharlie26

Member

• Aug 12, 2013

• #1

Hi,
I've looked on this forum to see if this has been covered and I can't find any threads that cover it.

I have just aquired a 90 with a stuck locked difflock which I have managed to sort out using this forum - thanks guys. Now to see what damage has been done as it has been driven on the road for about 500miles since the transfer box was swapped by the previous owner. I guess the garage who changed it didn't check it was working properly as the adjustment was miles out.

My question is, with the handbrake on so that the rear is locked, car in gear, how much play should there be between the front and back output shafts on the transfer box? On mine, it is probably an inch or two. Does that seem excessive? If so do I need another transfer box?


Any help appreciated.

Regards,
Den

 

Last edited: Aug 12, 2013

Mark L

Well-Known Member

• Aug 12, 2013

• #2

Up to 7 degrees of play in either flange is all you should get from a good working condition transfer box.
I only know this because I've just had mine reconditioned at AW Transmissions.

 

deltacharlie26

Member

• Aug 12, 2013

• #3

Mark L said:

Up to 7 degrees of play in either flange is all you should get from a good working condition transfer box.
I only know this because I've just had mine reconditioned at AW Transmissions.

Click to expand...

Be interested to know what that equates to when fitted, car in gear, handbrake on.
DC

 

Landyfox

Well-Known Member

• Aug 12, 2013

• #4

I'm amazed you've been able to drive it 500 miles whilst stuck in Diff Lock as cornering would be a nightmare!!!

 

deltacharlie26

Member

• Aug 12, 2013

• #5

I didn't drive it the previous owner did (so he told me) and you are right, cornering was a nightmare but now sorted. Just trying to correct all the damage that may have been done. Front UJ is shot, front drive members look sloppy, not sure about the transfer box free play and the front diff needs looking at too! I've got some minor oil leak on the transfer box and didn't want to waste time/money if it is on its way out.

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Aug 12, 2013

• #6

there will be some play in most as theres some in diff gears as well as drive gears which can feel excessive ,if you jack a front and back wheel up and rotate both props together you will feel backlash in gears as youve done play in diff gears is added

 

deltacharlie26

Member

• Aug 13, 2013

• #7

Probably better to fix the front axle and UJ first and see the overall effect. I may be worrying about this for nothing.

 

deltacharlie26

Member

• Aug 19, 2013

• #8

I've replaced the front UJ that was shot but the play in the gearbox and transfer box needs further investigation. Anybody got a good LT77 gearbox and LT230 transfer box going spare?

 

deltacharlie26

Member

• Aug 20, 2013

• #9

Today I took the PTO cover off and had a look at the input gear/input shaft. Quick look on youtube and found I can just remove the input gear by lining up the intermediate gear and hey presto it's in my hand. The gearbox output shaft or is it the Transfer box input shaft looks OK to me. Bit of wear but the input gear is well worn. Looks like this is the main culprit so should be an easy fix. I have shown some pics of the input shaft/ input gear.
Do you guys think the input shaft is ok?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/63797704@N07/9555263467/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/63797704@N07/9558052928/

 

Last edited: Aug 20, 2013

deltacharlie26

Member

• Sep 7, 2013

• #10

Just to complete the story, replaced the input gear with a new cross drilled one - even reused the old bearings which were in good condition - and there is still some play but it doesn't clonk anymore and I am a happy bunny. Now to fix the crankhaft oil leak.