pbuf

pbuf

Active Member
Before you say it, I've searched this already, have applied the relative information I've found and still having problems.

Its a defender 90 200tdi, running a 24 spline axle on the rear and a 10 spline disco one which I replaced the knackered front 24 with (until 24 is rebuilt)

Tyres are 33-12.5-15. I've left the defender steering damper on the front, the disco axle also has one on the steering arm.

I read somewhere to centre the steering box is 924mm between centre of pitman arm track rod - track rod in swivel hub. set this near as dammit, and the steering wheel is now off centre. I then commenced to get 1mm of toe in, as the previous setting was 7mm toe out, and difficult to hold in a straight line.

I now get a slight pull to the left under acceleration, and a pull to the right off throttle, which is pretty wild. Still struggle to hold straight even with the toe in, it either wants to go left or right, feels like a constant oversteer.... What the hell is going on here? TRE's are all good, swivel bearings all sound, no play.
 
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Might be worth taking it into a garage to check over. Although not great if you want to do it all yourself, if you are still having issues, you could at least go and get a readout which will tell you if everything is aligned correctly.

Think it will set you back £25 to £30ish??
 
Theres a garage local to me in telford which does a free check, or sets the tracking for £20.

What I cant figure out is, someone on here said to centre the steering box set the track rod from the pitman to 924mm centre to centre. But at this setting with the steering wheel straight, the wheels are nowhere near centre, they point either left or right? Meaning when you centre the steering/wheels, the steering box is going to be off centre anyway.

I have adjusted the steering box play up 3 times, and yet it still needs a tweak. Never had these problems with my discoveries....is it more noticeable on a 90 due to the swb?
 
You be wanting 0 to 1 degree toe out on a Defender.
Try the string method or the two stick method
James

Oh and I find the best way to centre the box is to count the turns from left to right and stop half way.
Ratchet strap the steering wheel in place and sort the tracking.
when done either take the steering wheel off and centre it or revove the steering shaft u/j and centre the wheel that way
 
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If your absolutely sure the steering box is centred and your front wheels are out somewhat, then the drag link must be out of adjustment. Sounds like someone's just moved the steering wheel on the splines in the past to compensate for badly adjusted components.
 
Get it checked properly.
Down here Just Tyres check for free and only charge if adjustment is required. I have had mine adjusted only three times in 14-years and that was only due to component replacement.
The difference that even a slight mis-adjustment can make is very noticable and tyre wear can be significantly increased so it is false economy to guess.
 
if you look under the steering box you should see a hole and a notch in the drop arm, align these and stick a scredriver in em to keep them aligned. now reset the steering wheel.

adjust from there
 
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trax said:
if you look under the steering box you should see a hole and a notch in the drop arm, align these and stick a scredriver in em to keep them aligned. now reset the steering wheel.

adjust from there
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the replies! Had another go at tracking the other night. Set the track arm to 1215mm and how on earth that is a recommended base measurement ill never know. The wheels were toe'd out so far it looked plain ridiculous.

Used a 2 stick method and measuring tape and got it between 0-1 degree toe out. Drives a straight line a little easier but still grtting the left pull on throttle, right pull off throttle. Going to centre steering box tomorrow using quoted method and go from there
 
When I did mine after doing all the track rod ends and drop arm ball joint and second hand steering box.
Centre box and secure steering wheel with ratchet strap or two.
I tied string around rear anti roll bar on one side and pulled it tight to front and tied off so it was touching sides of tyre's then repeat other side.
Set drag link to get n/s wheel right using string. front tyre shoul be off string on rear part.
then adjust track rod to to set o/s wheel.
Done.
 
pbuf said:
Drives a straight line a little easier but still grtting the left pull on throttle, right pull off throttle.
Click to expand...

sounds a bit like something is moving. i'd go around having a recheck of your tre's, panhard bushes, trailing arms/bushes. make sure nothing is bent or moving about and your rear axle is aligned.
 
trax said:
sounds a bit like something is moving. i'd go around having a recheck of your tre's, panhard bushes, trailing arms/bushes. make sure nothing is bent or moving about and your rear axle is aligned.
Click to expand...

+ 1
Pointless doing tracking if any of the above componants need attention.
As Trax says - go round and check for loose joints. I'd start with the panhard rod.
 
trax said:
if you look under the steering box you should see a hole and a notch in the drop arm, align these and stick a scredriver in em to keep them aligned. now reset the steering wheel.

adjust from there
Click to expand...
+1

trax said:
sounds a bit like something is moving. i'd go around having a recheck of your tre's, panhard bushes, trailing arms/bushes. make sure nothing is bent or moving about and your rear axle is aligned.
Click to expand...
+1 again
currymunster said:
+ 1
Pointless doing tracking if any of the above componants need attention.
As Trax says - go round and check for loose joints. I'd start with the panhard rod.
Click to expand...
+1 again again.
trailing arm to chassis would be my favourite.
be worth checking for duff shockers too.
 
My next question was going to be, would a knackered shock cause erractic steering motion?

As i have a leaky one off side rear. Did the string method for tracking and the rear axle is slighty off...yet the 90 has had recent cranked trail arms...can this be solved by shimming where the trail arm bolts to chassis?

Ive also got a nosediving situation going on..i guess the winch and bumper on tired springs isnt ideal. A nice set of terrafirma +2" springs and shocks are on the want list. Fubds dobt allow for a while though :(
 
pbuf said:
My next question was going to be, would a knackered shock cause erractic steering motion?

As i have a leaky one off side rear. Did the string method for tracking and the rear axle is slighty off...yet the 90 has had recent cranked trail arms...can this be solved by shimming where the trail arm bolts to chassis?

Ive also got a nosediving situation going on..i guess the winch and bumper on tired springs isnt ideal. A nice set of terrafirma +2" springs and shocks are on the want list. Fubds dobt allow for a while though :(
Click to expand...

yes.
no.
wont help.

back axle should be in line with front axle (straight edge in line with wheels), dictated by panhard rod on front and A frame on rear.
check panhard rod for straightness and the bushes that hold it.
check A frame ball joint for play and bushes that secure it.

back axle should be in line with front axle (parallel, axle distance should be same nearside and offside), dictated by radius arms on front and trailing arms on rear. check bushes on all ends of arms for play. check aftermarket arms for correct length. check arms for straightness. check brackets for security.
 
nrgserv said:
yes.
no.
wont help.

back axle should be in line with front axle (straight edge in line with wheels), dictated by panhard rod on front and A frame on rear.
check panhard rod for straightness and the bushes that hold it.
check A frame ball joint for play and bushes that secure it.

back axle should be in line with front axle (parallel, axle distance should be same nearside and offside), dictated by radius arms on front and trailing arms on rear. check bushes on all ends of arms for play. check aftermarket arms for correct length. check arms for straightness. check brackets for security.
Click to expand...

+1 Again :rolleyes:
Lots for you to be checking :doh: :)
 
They're a labour of love.

I'll report my findings. It can only be so many things lol
 
Hi All,

I am also looking at doing my own tracking check, ( apologies for a slight thread hijack :D )

anyways, I have the defender 300tdi workshop manual it states the following.

Steering geometry
Steering wheel diameter .................................................. 412 mm (16.22 in)
Toe-out measurement ...................................................... 0 to 2 mm toe outToe-out included angle ..................................................... 0° to 0° 20’
Camber angle .................................................................. 0° *
Castor angle ..................................................................... 3° *
Swivel pin inclination static ............................................... 7° *

and yet when I have searched I see people stating 2mm toe in. Now is this personal preference or was there a change in thinking that has been updated?

Or, have I missed something blindingly obvious?

although I have to think from my POV I am going to probably go for 0 degrees,

Cheers,
 
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