timtheenchanteruk

timtheenchanteruk

Well-Known Member
well, MOT duly failed, needs some track rod ends.
just need to check which thread, etc etc.
first, both ends of the front steering bar.
so presumably one of each

RTC5869D & RTC5870D

now the nearside (passenger) of the rear bar also needs replacing, which one is this??

Cheers.
 
Check carefully which joints you require, in front of axle is drag link, behind axle is track rod. Set of three quoted by redhand is for both ends of track rod, and one end of drag link. Other end of drag link is drop arm joint which is a different set up altogether (see Busters guide for how to change this)
 
15860d1273937510-drop-arm-steering-advice-please-steering-diagram.jpg


to confirm its 15, 10 & 8 that actually need sorting (8 only actually needs a boot, but if its changed I know its reet.)
 
Just a thought, 25 quid or so will get you a drop arm complete with joint - might save you some swearing and sore knuckles
 
jimwyllie said:
Just a thought, 25 quid or so will get you a drop arm complete with joint - might save you some swearing and sore knuckles
Click to expand...

Yea I wish I had done this first before I bought the joint to rebuild ended up buying the complete link and taking the grinder out. just make sure you buy one that's all complete.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-STEERING-BOX-DROP-ARM-WITH-BALL-JOINT-RHD-/251063826184?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a7491f708
 
Last edited:
bought, had a look, by the time Id got the little tool to make it a bit easier, it was as cheap, and will be infinalty less arsing around to change the whole arm.
if it wont come off peacefully, Ill get the grinder on it :)
£26 OEM, could have got a cheaper one from you know who, but dont think Ill bother.
Got delphi rod ends, cheaper than the OEM, but not britpart :)
Took the steering guard off last night (nearly an hours job in itself :) parts coming tomorrow, nice evenings spannering to do then, dont need it for work thursday, so won't kill mesen.
I've got a three arm puller thing, that looks like it might get the arm off, If I can get it off in one go, that would be nice, I can rebuild it on the bench and have a spare then :)
 
For what its worth, when you change all of the joints you will have to make sure steering alignment is OK. Before you start try cutting a rod (garden cane ?) to fit exactly between wheel rims at back of axle. Then when you put refurbished track rod in you can check that wheel alignement is as before. For drag link you will have to measure ball joint centres - also if you have wheel alignment OK as above then steering wheel should be centred with wheels straight ahead. Hope this is clear, also do the old count turns for old joints out and new joints in.
 
I got a good tip from James and ratty, when you are doing the TRE's take the whole assembly out as one (undo tre's at both ends so you can work on it at a bench. Also allows you to measure the length so when new ones go on its easy to keep your tracking the same as what it was. Or buy a new track rod with it and assemble it against the old one. I think they are about £16 from paddocks
 
cheers for the tips, might get it all done, back together and get the tracking checked anyway, the steering wheel has never been straight on since I bought it.
just a quick Q, the drop arm, is it keywayed, of do I need to make sure that goes on the same way it came off??
 
timtheenchanteruk said:
cheers for the tips, might get it all done, back together and get the tracking checked anyway, the steering wheel has never been straight on since I bought it.
just a quick Q, the drop arm, is it keywayed, of do I need to make sure that goes on the same way it came off??
Click to expand...

(Hopefully understood keywayed right) There's certain bits on the threads that are bigger, so it'll only go on in one position. When you take it off you'll see what i mean :)
 
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