jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
sounds about right price wise ,check chassis especially at the rear rot is a big issue with the chassis ,if ace is fitted check pipes along drivers side chassis rail,normal checks with engine ie coolant issues
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
i really like them they are very cabable vehicles with a large boot space if needed,but you need to be prepared to do a few repairs ,its a 16 year old vehicle it will need wheel hubs and other wearing parts replacing at times
Yes, pretty much nuts and bolts stuff, but as James says, 16 years old means you need to keep up with looking after it. Spares are very cheap.
Peter
Peter
neilly
Well-Known Member
If you get one.
Make sure you have two keys that the fobs work, or get a spare one ASAP. Also make sure you have the EKA code.
Also worth finding someone locally who has a nanocom and making friends.
Regarding working on them, expect lots of rusted together bolts and nuts. But this is to be expected on a 16 year old motor.
As already said, check the rear of the chassis / check ACE if fitted, if removed then check it was done correctly / If it has suspension airbags, then operate it to see it working correctly, press the dash button to raise it up / If Central Diff Lock fitted then make sure it engages, but it may not be fitted.
Finally , make sure you know what dash lights should light up and make sure they all light up when the ingnition is turned on for the self test, to make sure some rascal has not removed the bulb or taped over them.
Cheers
Make sure you have two keys that the fobs work, or get a spare one ASAP. Also make sure you have the EKA code.
Also worth finding someone locally who has a nanocom and making friends.
Regarding working on them, expect lots of rusted together bolts and nuts. But this is to be expected on a 16 year old motor.
As already said, check the rear of the chassis / check ACE if fitted, if removed then check it was done correctly / If it has suspension airbags, then operate it to see it working correctly, press the dash button to raise it up / If Central Diff Lock fitted then make sure it engages, but it may not be fitted.
Finally , make sure you know what dash lights should light up and make sure they all light up when the ingnition is turned on for the self test, to make sure some rascal has not removed the bulb or taped over them.
Cheers
Or get the RAVE download, plenty of sources these days.
Peter
Peter
neilly
Well-Known Member
discool
Well-Known Member
So he did. But as I said the LRs owners handbook is a lot better than your PDFsHe asked about the warning lights, I gave him the info.
.
Anyone thinking of buying and running a Discovery really needs to have ALL the information that comes in the manuals, I refer to ours regularly, we have three D2's and a 110 CSW in the family.
Peter
Peter
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
Well from what I can read of the MOT history in order
V943 - Looks like it has already had to have some major welding to get it through its Nov 2014 MOT. That will need some looking / inspecting to see how / what has been done, if it has been done correctly & just not bodged to get it through.
V27 - Does mention twice on the advisories about the chassis having some corrosion & thinning in areas. So that is likely to need sorting out soon if it hasn't already been done.
V628 - Does mention on a recurring advisory about rear chassis corrosion till it fails. So obviously that will have to have been sorted for its current MOT and it appears that only the bit that failed has been fettled as there's still a mention on the advisory.
I'd say really they are all much of a muchness and you're only gonna find out which is best / most solid / had the correct preventative repairs done by getting under them & having a look.
V943 - Looks like it has already had to have some major welding to get it through its Nov 2014 MOT. That will need some looking / inspecting to see how / what has been done, if it has been done correctly & just not bodged to get it through.
V27 - Does mention twice on the advisories about the chassis having some corrosion & thinning in areas. So that is likely to need sorting out soon if it hasn't already been done.
V628 - Does mention on a recurring advisory about rear chassis corrosion till it fails. So obviously that will have to have been sorted for its current MOT and it appears that only the bit that failed has been fettled as there's still a mention on the advisory.
I'd say really they are all much of a muchness and you're only gonna find out which is best / most solid / had the correct preventative repairs done by getting under them & having a look.
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
Forgot to put on my last post -
Don't forget a MOT test is the MINIMUM standard that a vehicle has to achieve to be roadworthy. So any rust, repairs, bodge jobs can be done so's just to allow 'Mr Jones' to keep driving it for 12 more months. 2-3 weeks later and it could all fall apart again but because its got that (well its not even got a ticket anymore) piece of paper doesn't mean its sound & roadworthy.
Don't forget a MOT test is the MINIMUM standard that a vehicle has to achieve to be roadworthy. So any rust, repairs, bodge jobs can be done so's just to allow 'Mr Jones' to keep driving it for 12 more months. 2-3 weeks later and it could all fall apart again but because its got that (well its not even got a ticket anymore) piece of paper doesn't mean its sound & roadworthy.
