And I wouldn't be driving it until it's checked, if there's a whole bunch of busted off gearteeth in the bottom of the diff casing, one or more could suddenly get caught in whats left of the workings and jam it up - that wouldn't be nice nor fun while at cruising speeds.........

You need to get it looked at, possibly snapped half shaft but you would expect mechanical noise if it was just spinning free inside the diff casing. Maybe it has stripped the splines on a drive shaft and it is spinning inside sun wheel. Don't think there is room in the bottom of the diff case for two broken up planet wheels to just be lying there.
 
Just a little update i booked it into a indy for next week for a investagation.. I have a feeling its going to be a flexiable friend time:eek:
 
The answer is ...The ns front drive shaft had snapped inside the cv joint .. could have been like that for years .A new shaft and new cv joint all fixed now £223 later at a indy ..just the eas left now to do if i can find anything to penertrate eas ecu..
 
hmm nice easy job on my Series 2 and at not much cost, and the good thing is you can do other stuff while its in bits
 
The answer is ...The ns front drive shaft had snapped inside the cv joint .. could have been like that for years .A new shaft and new cv joint all fixed now £223 later at a indy ..just the eas left now to do if i can find anything to penertrate eas ecu..

thats easy..

plenty places sell eas ecu lead for your laptop..datatek on here...

software is free on net.
 
The indy tried autologic to read ecu but he said the ecu wasnt in the mood to be looked at.I had this problem before with testbook at a another indy..but i can access with unloc suite on my laptop:confused:
 
The indy tried autologic to read ecu but he said the ecu wasnt in the mood to be looked at.I had this problem before with testbook at a another indy..but i can access with unloc suite on my laptop:confused:

Sort it yourself then it's not difficult.
 
Tried it no faults shown no leaks all new bags no sagging or leaning.. air pressure vavle switch thing not leaking..just the compresser running alot
could it be the driverpack..
 
Tried it no faults shown no leaks all new bags no sagging or leaning.. air pressure vavle switch thing not leaking..just the compresser running alot
could it be the driverpack..

Could be the pressure switch. A lot cheaper than a driver pack, which does not control in any way the compressor or pressure switch. That could also be caused by a dicky sensor causing a bag to be constantly cycled.
 
Tried it no faults shown no leaks all new bags no sagging or leaning.. air pressure vavle switch thing not leaking..just the compresser running alot
could it be the driverpack..
Does the driver pack control the Compressor??

I thought it was there to open/close the valve solenoids only and measure the tank pressure....I could be wrong so stand ready to be corrected.
 
I am on my 3rd compresser could i wire in a switch to turn it on or off from inside...

That suggests your compressor is feeding a leak somewhere or you have been buying secondhand compressors that are shagged.
Even if you have "Good Idle" and the comms are working, nothing will work if there is insufficient air pressure.
 
255 ..as stated,comms fault,not talking to ecu proper like..

compressor running to much..hmmmm..lots of things,but my guess a leak..get the soapy water out again..attack valve block (etc)with it(leaks can be internal)..then faulty pressure sensor...i have air gauge in mine,can monitor tank pressure,instantly know if a leak is about..(damn useful)
 

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