Landyfox

Well-Known Member
I've just completed a search to see if this is common fault and it appears that it's not :(

The issue I have is that the temp gauge on the instrument panel seems to have a mind of its own. Normally the gauge sits perpendicular between the C/H markers, however when putting the main headlights on the gauge would immediately rise into the orange HOT area indicating overheating. Surprisingly once the lights are turned off the gauge returns to the centre position. This is an intermittent fault but extremely annoying.

Does anyone have a colour coded wiring diagram as I suspect that either the thermastat is faulty or there is a short in the wiring somewhere. (Worrying as I have no idea how to use this VoltMeter to check for faults :()

Vehicle details: Defender 300TDi
 
Sounds like a poor earth to me and it's a very common issue.
Check, clean and refit your earths.
 
The wiring is a joke! It looks like the previous owner (farmer) has made his own alterations to suit his needs which have obviously worked for him, problem is he hasn't left any kind of wiring diagram :( Electrics certainly not one of my stronger points - I've purchased a voltmeter, now I need to figure out how to use it!! Any pointers would be welcomed ;D
 
Don't work on electrics live. Car batteries can deliver a lot of amps quickly so can cause nasty burns, fires, explosions etc!

Disconnect the battery - terminal.

Work your way from the battery out tracing the circuit.

Disconnect and clean the earths with a wire brush. Coat lightly with petroleum jelly to reduce corrosion.

Reconnect the battery cable.
 
hes going to need battery connected to check each wire has 12v before a switch and after if on and not if off,
 
I would and have in the past measured resistance between the disconnected battery - cable and each earth using a jump lead as an extension. Readings should be very low, under a couple of ohms. Obviously there are jobs were it's easier to work live, but this is one were it's all to easy to accidentally catch a live whilst unbolting an earth. OP said he did not have a clue, so I just wanted to highlight the dangers for the unwary who think it's just extra low voltage. It still packs a punch!
 
Cheers guys!!

Yup you're quite right to warn me :eek: I removed the instrument panel this afternoon before the heavens opened up here in the sunny North East and thought to myself; bloody hell where do you start.?!!!! From what I can see all the earths appear to be earthing satisfactorily. I've also noticed that the rear right turn signal (indicator) isn't working, this is causing the front and side repeater to go fast. Normally this would indicate a short or a loose bulb but I cant find anything.
 
Check:

Bulb
Live at bulb holder
Earth at bulb holder

Start from the switch and check for continuity of each wire - electrics can be a proper pain in the arse, and usually it's just an odd wire.
 
Hiya,

I had the same problem, checked the earths, found the main engine to chassis earth was fubarred, so changed that and then added a smaller gauge earths from the instrument panel to earthing points inside and also added a few earthing jumpers inside the engine bay to make sure the earth was always good, even if the joint looks good may be worthwhile just undoing cleaning and refitting. Amazing how these can break down.
 
Head is mullered now with these electrics!!!!

At some point the former farmer owner had wired in a spotlight, running the live feed from the cigar lighter!!! The best part is, he has removed the light unit prior to selling but left the bare wires just hanging underneath the metal roof resting on the headlining. If this isn't bad enough.....the bare wire connections at the cigar lighter were insulated using.....

....wait for it.........PAPER TOWLES!!!!! :eek:

I'm ALIVE - Don't know how!!

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I think with farmers it can be a made do and mend mentality. The dealer I bought my Landy off was also a farmer and I very much regret asking him to make any repairs on it. He has basically destroyed the engine and totally bodged everything he touched.

A few small examples. His fix for the back of the exhaust hanging off was to wrap an exhaust bandage around it which lasted a couple of days. Horn fix was to wrap the wire around the terminal instead of soldering or crimping a new connector on. That one actually survived a few weeks, until I needed it in an emergency and found it did not work. He replaced one of the leakoff pipes with a much larger diameter pipe which fell off whilst I was driving and ****ed diesel everywhere. I could go on for a very long time...I'll not go through what he did to the engine but it's toast!
 

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