lhandrover

Active Member
Hi - TD5 Disco 2 is juddering/vibrating on acceleration and deceleration - I thought misfire at 1st as it is down on power too. It does not smoke and runs perfectly on tickover or revving whilst at standstill - All this happens only under load. Checked injector loom and cleaned out some oil at ecu end - wasn't much and made no difference.

It does feel like a misfire but can't think why it would do it under deceleration and why it runs fine when stood still. Taking it out of gear and coasting and it doesn't do it either. No other noises apparent.

Any ideas please?
 
Check the driveline components - they're under load when you accelerate and decelerate (engine braking). Propshaft U/Js for play, rubber donut on end of rear proshaft for cracks etc. (rotoflex coupling).
 
Thanks for fast reply - crawled under and all appears tight and no movement possible by hand in any direction. Incidentally, this came on all of a sudden and does have reduced power - on the flat it runs fine. Judder/Vibration is more noticeable under load
 
I have a drone when I lift off the throttle going down hill in 4th particularly replaced all my ujs donut etc still there though!

Could your problem be engine mounts/gearbox mounts
 
Check the driveline components - they're under load when you accelerate and decelerate (engine braking). Propshaft U/Js for play, rubber donut on end of rear proshaft for cracks etc. (rotoflex coupling).

I've just been out in it again looking for more symptoms - and I'm not sure it is down on power after all - it does feel like something in the drive train as you said. As I can't feel any movement is there a way of isolating components so I can run it up on a jack or something (like a 2 wheel drive car using the diff)

Can I remove the rear prop and run of front wheel drive for instance?
 
Can I remove the rear prop and run of front wheel drive for instance?


NO...the D2 does not have a centre difflock, only traction control. To clarify, the early D2s up to some time in 2001 have the cDL internals in the transfer box (there's a spigot sticking out of the top). The later ones had the internals removed as well. You can manually operate the spigot - 10mm open ended spanner I think.

You can convert the D2s with the CDL internals with a linkage and lever arrangemnt same as the D1's but it's a bit of money and hassle.
 
I have a drone when I lift off the throttle going down hill in 4th particularly replaced all my ujs donut etc still there though!

Could your problem be engine mounts/gearbox mounts

Drone might just be tyre noise...
 
NO...the D2 does not have a centre difflock, only traction control. To clarify, the early D2s up to some time in 2001 have the cDL internals in the transfer box (there's a spigot sticking out of the top). The later ones had the internals removed as well. You can manually operate the spigot - 10mm open ended spanner I think.

You can convert the D2s with the CDL internals with a linkage and lever arrangemnt same as the D1's but it's a bit of money and hassle.

Ok thanks - So understand I can't just jack it up, but does that mean I can't disc onnect rear prop and run FWD to isolate the rear ?
 
Further update - I rechecked the props and after moving the disco into a different position (should have done this with wheels off ground but don't easily have this option) and have found some play in the rear of the front shaft where it is in that double jointed bit. It doesn't seem very much, maybe 1 or 2mm of movement, but can imagine it doesnt need much to start causing vibration. Sound feasible?
Thanks DIFFLOCK66 - either way it needs sorting, but sure (Hope..) you hit nail on the head on this one
 
The double jointed bit is the double cardan joint. Yeah, sounds feasible - here's a good write up: www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft

Note you may already have grease nipples installed on your props - visit them with a grease gun anyway, then go for another drive, you never know.

OK - to reiterate, there's no centre difflock in the transfer box. Remove a propshaft and the power will take the easiest option & transmit itself to the unconnected flange. If the car's jacked up, you may get lucky and have the front wheels spinning, but if they're on the floor i.e. restrained, then no drive. Sorry. Unless you manually activate the CDL.. then again, what year is your Disco 2?
 
It is a 99 - No grease nipples so looks factory from what I've gleaned on the website. I've removed the front shaft now (courtesy of the inevitable one rounded nut which I just managed to get off at the last minute before setting fire to the whole shabang) and the joint that had 1 0r 2 mm of movement is nearer to inches - its all over the shop. Seem's while held in place on the car the angle it was at put it under tension reducing the movement.
Lesson learnt, free up the drive shaft by getting LR off the floor or try for movement by rotating shaft occasionally - ie move the car a bit.

I've ordered a GKN joints ( part number for the joints is HS160 with grease nipples according to the excellent discovery2.co.uk detail)

Next problem is I don't have access to a vice - I may have to get a garage to change them over for me. Unless anyone out there in or near North Kent can help for a fee??
 
Top Tip! - I don't have that either but could be cheaper than Garage option I guess - mind you, would have to be a pretty meaty one wouldn't it?

not massive, but good quality, ive used 8-10" clamp to change them, and find it easier than using a vice
 
Wont need a g clamp to get em out hammer and a socket as mine where corroded in there with gunk may be lucky but when taking it apart watch out for the centering bearing
 
Wont need a g clamp to get em out hammer and a socket as mine where corroded in there with gunk may be lucky but when taking it apart watch out for the centering bearing


Ta - will it fall apart or is it difficult to reassemble?
 
Ta - will it fall apart or is it difficult to reassemble?

So long as you take care with it its ok just with having to hit mine to separate them didn't help but you can reassemble them with a non metallic poker ie pencil to reseat the needles but be careful with them and you'll be ok
 

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