Bantam1

Bantam1

Well-Known Member
As my D2 suffered from the plastic dowel head issue, which I caught early enough and it now runs lovely again I'm wondering if I need to check this oil pump bolt or not.
My D2 is late 1998 so very early and has 75K on it.
Anyone know at what mileage these issues have manifested themselves on other vehicles?
Also, I have been wondering about using NordLock washers when I eventually look at it but having never seen inside the Td5 sump before I don't know whether they will suit.
nordlockwashers.jpeg nordlock.jpeg
 
At a very rough guess and taking it slowly, how long to replace the bolt ( with the underbelly already out of the way )? I have bought the replacement bolt but it looks a little bit rusty. Although it is new it may have been on the shelf a while. I am worried that I might be replacing a bolt which is perfectly alright. It is a 2003 discovery.
 
brianconwy said:
At a very rough guess and taking it slowly, how long to replace the bolt ( with the underbelly already out of the way )? I have bought the replacement bolt but it looks a little bit rusty. Although it is new it may have been on the shelf a while. I am worried that I might be replacing a bolt which is perfectly alright. It is a 2003 discovery.
Click to expand...

Have you removed the cross member? as that is what took the time on mine.

not difficult to do, but there is a good write up on discovery2 website.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html
You could well be replacing a perfectly good bolt, but there has been some later models that have failed. It is your choice.

Cheers
 
I had sump off my td5 defender recently @brianconwy . Didn't change the bolt it felt tight but mine's 2003, if it was early like yours I defo would. I might get.another chance way things are going.....anyway

Had crossmember off my disco when I did exhaust downpipe. The grinder came out cuz most the bolts snapped. I reckon a decent penetrating spray and lots of patience you wont need to bodge like i did.

Did have to jack chassis up a load to drop axle to get sump clear. Couple of hours if youre not rushing and take time getting mating surfaces nice and clean. Taking time to follow loosening and tightening patterns.
Get genuine sump gasket, anything else just doesn't seem to fit nicely and you'll need RTV to run 3 small beads on block mating face. 2 either side towards front and one towards back.

RTV details and bolt sequences/torque values are in haynes manual unless youve got rave and what not. Its an alright job to be fair if youve got a creeper, can be a literal pain in the neck else ;)
 
I need to change the clutch soon so I have already changed all the bolts in the cross-members. I have also bought a rear crankcase seal so I will have to slacken the sump to lower it a little. i am thinking of changing the bolt when I pluck up the courage and have the time to do the clutch. I was wondering how much time this would add to the clutch change. Thanks.
 
brianconwy said:
I need to change the clutch soon so I have already changed all the bolts in the cross-members. I have also bought a rear crankcase seal so I will have to slacken the sump to lower it a little. i am thinking of changing the bolt when I pluck up the courage and have the time to do the clutch. I was wondering how much time this would add to the clutch change. Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you're slackening it off anyway it and much more work to drop it and do the bolt is it? Could prob rest it on axle to be fair
 
This is the new bolt i have bought.
Bolt.jpg

Do you try and use brake cleaner to clear away old oil and add a little extra loctite or am I being a little OCD?
 
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