Forester654 · Mar 20, 2018

Hi Folks,

Problem with the immobiliser on my Defender TD5 99'.

Fitted new front LED spotlights yesterday. Disconnected battery using correct procedure. Disconnected old lights and wired in new lights. Reconnected battery before bolting new lights into place to check all was ok. Lights all working - no problems.

Disconnected battery again using correct procedure and finished bolting lights into place. Checked connections one last time and all secure. Reconnected battery again.

This time small blue light started flashing on top of the dash panel and when trying to start siren goes off and engine immobilised. Removed negative terminal and siren stops. When I reconnect the negative terminal there is no alarm only when I try to start engine.

I've tried searching on the internet and these forums but it's a bit of mine field. Can any one explain to me what exactly is going on?

Thanks in advance.

Sam

Scooby22 · Mar 20, 2018

Similar problem posted on here the other day, I think he turned ignition key to position 2 then connected battery and engine started ok after that.

Forester654 · Mar 20, 2018

Thanks for the reply Scooby. I've just tried that and no joy unfortunately.

Scooby22 · Mar 20, 2018

Have you tried locking and unlocking doors with key fob, is fob battery ok.

Forester654 · Mar 20, 2018

No central locking on vehicle. Fob battery is ok.

Forester654 · Mar 20, 2018

I cant find any reference to the small blue light on top of the dash panel either. When searching it always talks about the red light on the dials themselves and not on top of the dash console above the heater controls. Does anyone else have this light? This is the light that is coming on when reconnecting battery.

discool · Mar 20, 2018

The blue LED is interesting, so do u have a factory fitted security system? From what u say it appears that u don't have a battery backed up sounder or at least it isn't functional.

Forester654 · Mar 20, 2018

discool said:
The blue LED is interesting, so do u have a factory fitted security system? From what u say it appears that u don't have a battery backed up sounder or at least it isn't functional.

Hi discool,

If I'm honest, I'm not entirely sure. Half the job with these things seem to be working out what has been modified / bodged by previous owners before fixing a problem!

There have been quite a few modifications and aftermarket bits and pieces added to this one over the years so I wouldn't be surprised if the security system isn't standard.

If the battery backed up sounder wasn't functional then wouldn't the alarm come back on when reconnecting main battery? When reconnecting there is no alarm until I turn the key in the ignition.

When trying Scooby's suggestion above, turning key to II before reconnecting dash does light up and I can hear things priming but alarm comes back on after a few seconds. However if reconnecting without key in the ignition first and then putting key in there is no response at all apart from alarm straight away.

Brown · Mar 20, 2018

Sounds like there is an aftermarket alarm immobiliser fitted and they can easily go wrong. I had a Thatcham Cat 1 fitted to mine shortly after I bought it, and this malfunctioned at the end of 2014 which, along with a wiring loom and ecu failure, put me off the road for a while. My little extra light was on the plastic steering column though, rather than the instrument cluster.

discool · Mar 20, 2018

Ok Forester, with the factory fitted alarm sounder as soon as you disconnected a battery lead the sounder would sound, powered by its own on-board battery, the battery being a ni-cad it very doubtful that the sounder would sound if a lead was disconnected as they only last 3or4 years.
That over, the suggestions mentioned are for a factory fitted security system, example, before disconnecting the battery insert the ignition key turn on-off, removing the battery lead within 15 seconds etc etc. The alarm sounding when reconnecting the battery lead, silence with the fob and then insert and turn the ignition key to position ll to reset the system.

So, I take it you haven disconnected the battery to this vehicle before so what happened now the system is now in an 'alarm condition' and requires unsettling.
As we don't know what system u have... but u have a fob but no remote central locking we will take it the fob is used for setting/unsettling the alarm and possible remobiising the engine.

So is the fob doing anything at the moment, is it working? Any info on the system, number of buttons on the fob a photo perhaps will help the I D of the system, it could be an LR system but now fitted with a blue led but factory fitted LED's are within the dash not on top.

That's about it

Forester654 · Mar 24, 2018

Brown said:
Sounds like there is an aftermarket alarm immobiliser fitted and they can easily go wrong. I had a Thatcham Cat 1 fitted to mine shortly after I bought it, and this malfunctioned at the end of 2014 which, along with a wiring loom and ecu failure, put me off the road for a while. My little extra light was on the plastic steering column though, rather than the instrument cluster.

Thanks for the reply Brown. Just to confirm it was a Thatcham Cat 1 that had the additional light? I really don't know much about these things. Where are the aftermarket units usually installed as in where should I start looking to find out what aftermarket is installed on mine? Thanks.

discool said:
Ok Forester, with the factory fitted alarm sounder as soon as you disconnected a battery lead the sounder would sound, powered by its own on-board battery, the battery being a ni-cad it very doubtful that the sounder would sound if a lead was disconnected as they only last 3or4 years.
That over, the suggestions mentioned are for a factory fitted security system, example, before disconnecting the battery insert the ignition key turn on-off, removing the battery lead within 15 seconds etc etc. The alarm sounding when reconnecting the battery lead, silence with the fob and then insert and turn the ignition key to position ll to reset the system.

So, I take it you haven disconnected the battery to this vehicle before so what happened now the system is now in an 'alarm condition' and requires unsettling.
As we don't know what system u have... but u have a fob but no remote central locking we will take it the fob is used for setting/unsettling the alarm and possible remobiising the engine.

So is the fob doing anything at the moment, is it working? Any info on the system, number of buttons on the fob a photo perhaps will help the I D of the system, it could be an LR system but now fitted with a blue led but factory fitted LED's are within the dash not on top.

That's about it

Thanks again for the reply discool. I have disconnected / reconnected the battery multiple times and never had any issues.

The fob is working. It's just the standard two button fob. When I press the lock button in a normal situation (I don't actually use it that often), the indicators flash, the horn sounds twice and then the red light appears within the dash as a solid light then turns to a slow flashing. I've heard the two beeps of the horn mean a 'miss lock'. I would guess as I can't find any sensors / wires on any doors this is why it sounds. If I try to start the engine with this alarm enabled the alarm goes off. When I press unlock the internal light flashes and red light goes off on dash. If I try to start the engine with this alarm enabled the alarm goes off.

If I reconnect the battery and the blue light is on I am also able to enable / disable the 'standard' system as normal.

This fob doesn't appear to be linked to the system which uses the blue light. Infact I have never even seen the blue light on since I've owned the vehicle until this occasion.
As I asked Brown, any advice on where / what I should be looking at to try and identify what system it is would be much appreciated. I've attached a couple photos.

Cheers

Scooby22 · Mar 24, 2018

You should not get any horn beeps when locking, lift your bonnet and straighten up the bonnet alarm trigger on the bulk head, its usually this swicth that causes that to happen if all the doors are closed correctly. If the switch is even slightly bent to one side it triggers. You may have to bend up the bracket slightly.
If that does not work check all three door light plunger switches are working ok. Or all five if a 110.

Forester654 · Mar 25, 2018

Scooby22 said:
You should not get any horn beeps when locking, lift your bonnet and straighten up the bonnet alarm trigger on the bulk head, its usually this swicth that causes that to happen if all the doors are closed correctly. If the switch is even slightly bent to one side it triggers. You may have to bend up the bracket slightly.
If that does not work check all three door light plunger switches are working ok. Or all five if a 110.

I just been having a play around with it and I've noticed the trigger on the rear door has nothing to actually push it in. Googled some photos and there is supposed to be a small metal bracket it on the door that depresses the plunger when closed. The holes are there for it. Anyone have any idea what this is called or where I could buy one?

However, the systems don't appear to be linked so it wouldn't solve my current problem I'm guessing.

Scooby22 · Mar 25, 2018

https://www.landroverworkshop.com/d...doors/rear-side-door-hinges-check-strap_44877
Is this the part, No25.

Forester654 · Mar 25, 2018

Scooby22 said:
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/d...doors/rear-side-door-hinges-check-strap_44877
Is this the part, No25.

Yes that is the part Scooby, much appreciated. I was looking trawling through the parts catalogue but was having no luck.

There has been a development. I thought I would take the dash panel off to try and trace the wires from the small light and found this (photo attached).

So it appears I have a Scorpion Automotive system fitted. Does this mean I should actually have a second fob for this system or can they be linked?

Cheers

Scooby22 · Mar 25, 2018

Forester654 said:
Yes that is the part Scooby, much appreciated. I was looking trawling through the parts catalogue but was having no luck.

There has been a development. I thought I would take the dash panel off to try and trace the wires from the small light and found this (photo attached).

So it appears I have a Scorpion Automotive system fitted. Does this mean I should actually have a second fob for this system or can they be linked?

Cheers

View attachment 145281 View attachment 145282

7n

Sorry, I cant help you with that one, might be worth trying to search and download the fitting instructions for it. Is it a tracker or an imobiliser, they make trackers as well.
Edit:
All theirs have their own fobs.
https://www.scorpionauto.com/vehicle-alarms-immobilisers/

Forester654 · Mar 26, 2018

I am pretty certain it is an immobiliser after some googling.

Had a couple of replies on another forum saying I should have a fob, pin override panel and the pin - none of these were supplied by the previous owner.

Infact they never even mentioned this system, I'm starting to think they didn't realise they had it either as day to day I haven't noticed any extra features that this system provides.

I was also told that it can be unplugged as it is spliced into the original loom so I would have to put everything back to normal

I'm not really seeing any other option other than an expensive trip to the garage to get it removed.

I guess buying a new fob and somehow syncing it to the security system wouldn't be an option?

Rougharse Racing · Mar 28, 2018

I had an immobiliser issue with a 300tdi Discovery, different vehicle I know, when the battery had been flat.
I tried jump starting it and tow starting it but the immobiliser wouldn't deactivate.
The RAC came out to it and took the positive lead off the battery and grounded it on the vehicle's bodywork, re-connected it and all was well. I think grounding the positive lead reset the imobiliser, a bit like big-buttoning a computer.
Could be worth a try.

Scooby22 · Mar 28, 2018

Wiring diagram,
Edit: sorry just remembered yours is a 1999 model,

Forester654 · Mar 28, 2018

Rougharse Racing said:
I had an immobiliser issue with a 300tdi Discovery, different vehicle I know, when the battery had been flat.
I tried jump starting it and tow starting it but the immobiliser wouldn't deactivate.
The RAC came out to it and took the positive lead off the battery and grounded it on the vehicle's bodywork, re-connected it and all was well. I think grounding the positive lead reset the imobiliser, a bit like big-buttoning a computer.
Could be worth a try.

Thanks for the reply Rougharse Racing. Willing to try any options at this point.

When you say he took the positive terminal off this was with the negative still connected? Sorry for stupid question always told never take to take positive off first, makes me a little nervous

Cheers

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