AT31916

New Member
Re: Clutch bleeding problems
All put new slave cylinder on and fully bled now got a pedal with about 1/2 - 3/4" play at the top then pressure but the clutch still won't disengage
This is following a clutch and control arm change
Can anyone help?
Thanks in advance
 
hope it wasnt a britpart clutch.had one fitted to my previous td5 and had to select reverse before starting engine.i just had a valeo fitted in this one had a few issues bleeding fitted new slave sorted.
 
just dont think it was up to the job. think thats why most call em sh*tpart. having slipped it a few times it started to work.is plate in right way round.is dmf ok.
 
release arms rarely fail on td5s as not the pressed steel part like tdis,clutch plate is easy to get wrong way round as it fits the other way than looks normal,input shaft in gearbox can jam against spigot bush
 
it's a matter of luck/bad luck i think... i fitted(with plate in correct position;)) then removed AP clutch kit cos it didnt engage well... sent it back and they said it was destroyed while it was fitted:mad::flame: ... put britpart HD kit and worked brilliant(and it still does after about 10K miles)
 
Just taken box out and clutch is fitted correctly, We endoscoped it last night and the release bearing was pushing the fingers about 15-20mm is that the correct amount to clear?
Anyone got any suggestions for next action?
Thanks
 
why new arm ,correct push rod,did you have to pull box up with bolts or did it push up easy to engine,is possible to get poor clutch cover
 
We had a struggle getting the last bit
New arm was due to the old push rod wearing away it's self and the socket it sits in all genuine parts apart from the clutch kit it is britpart
 
All
New nuts for the cover plate genuine parts fouled on the cover plate causing it to stick and not work
Arrrr
 

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