NeilTD4

Active Member

• Apr 15, 2013

• #1

Evening all,

Basically, as title suggests my 04 TD4 Auto is shaking at idle. It was fine on the drive home from work (20 odd miles) and was shaking quite well when I pulled onto the drive.

Can't see anything obvious and can't move the engine by hand, as I did wonder if a mount had started to let go.

I have had low rev hesitation on and off for a little while, when on a light throttle at about 1500rpm. It's been better since I've run a couple of tanks of V Power diesel through it.

I do have a v low mileage MAF to swap out with my 122k one to start the process of elimination, just haven't got round to it yet…

Air, breather and turbo filters replaced 5k ago along with the intercooler hoses.

So, where do I go from here…?

And no, I'm not going to burn it just yet. Need to get some use out my new VCU

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Apr 15, 2013

• #2

last one had with that had a poor injector

 

NeilTD4

Active Member

• Apr 15, 2013

• #3

I was beginning to wonder if that was the cause…

Part of me hoping not, but will have to face reality v soon now then

Next question is then; how hard is to change an injector, once the dodgy one has been found.

My local Landy specialist will Test Book it for £25…

 

Zejmjien

Active Member

• Apr 16, 2013

• #4

Check the connection to the rail pressure sensor (you have to disconnect the air ducting to get to it) it's known for corroding. If this happens the ECU will get a false reading and inject a wrong amount of fuel.

If it's the case the part can be supplied and soldered in place.

If you want to test:

1.Clean the connections (both sides) and test

2.replace the sensor (it may have gone bust) and test

3. Replace connector with three sliders temporarily and test

I would connect the sliders in parallel to the connector at first so as not to clip it off unnecessarily, if results do not vary all you have to do is desolder the attached wires and sliders and apply self amalgamating

Last and not least, once out check the air ducting, mine as full of oil so give it a clean if its the case

I had this problem on my 04 TD4 and seems like it is solved, once confirmed i will post with results

 

NeilTD4

Active Member

• Apr 16, 2013

• #5

Funnily enough, it was fine this morning apart from one time when I had to stop at a set of traffic lights.

The fuel pressure sensor plug is on my list to check, hopefully get to have a look at tonight if stays dry.

Thank you for the info, will be interesting to see how you get on with yours.

 

Zejmjien

Active Member

• Apr 16, 2013

• #6

To the moment of writing (touch wood) it is much smoother and does not rock on idle. it has been almost three weeks now so testing is almost over

 

john t

Active Member

• Apr 20, 2013

• #7

sounds like an injector problem,,

with the engine running ,
pull off a connector to one of the injectors,if its ok the engine will start to splutter, reconnect ,
if its faulty it will have little effect, do this to each injector in turn

 

NeilTD4

Active Member

• Apr 21, 2013

• #8

I gave the fuel pressure sensor a going over with WD40 earlier and all seemed well when I went for a test drive afterwards, but if it rears it's head again I'll try unplugging each injector in turn…

On a side note, while I had the thing in bits I changed the long vacuum hose that runs from the turbo actuator solenoid to the reservoir as I noticed that was well past it's best. I re-routed it slightly at the reservoir which should hopefully prolong it's life.

 

Zejmjien

Active Member

• Apr 23, 2013

• #9

if it was ok when wd40 was sprayed then returned to same state it's likely that the wd40 had dried up after some time. Ideally use a contact cleaner like Kontakt60 which leaves a protective layer. Did you check the insides of the connector?

 

NeilTD4

Active Member

• Apr 23, 2013

• #10

So far all seems well…

Ended up using WD40 as my can of contact cleaner hasn't turned up after the house move as of yet

One thing I have noticed since my tinkering is that it doesn't smoke as much when started from cold

Plug and sensor didn't seem that dirty, but hey ho it's all good.

For now…

 

hd3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Apr 23, 2013

• #11

Plug and sensor didn't seem that dirty

Click to expand...

the voltage there is fairly low ..
the input is around 5v ..
and the variable output voltage .. back to the ecu ..will be less ..
depending on the fuel rail pressure ..

so .. good idea to put some protectorant of some sort on those contacts ..
wouldn't take much dirt/corrosion to screw up the voltage readings ..
and confuse the ecu as to how much pressure is in the rail ..

my choice of protectorant was 'contralube'
contralube.com
i smeared some where the wires go into the plug as well ..
in theory .. to prevent any water ingress

also used it on a body earth point ( as well as most electrical connections in the engine bay ) .. i.e. the earth point on the engine bay bulkhead drivers-side

 

M

Mcdonan44

New Member

• Apr 24, 2013

• #12

Is that the best way to check for a faulty injector i.e. pull off each electrical connector and listen for change in engine sound? Will this bring on a fault light, will it reset automatically?

Only reason I ask is that I also have a lumpy idle along with sluggish low end and rattle at approx 1200-1500 rpm.
I have tried running with the maf disconnected and never noticed any improvement.
Cheers
Neil

 

Last edited: Apr 25, 2013