gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
hiya guys

ive been reading up about the position of the rear fuel filter replacement and know ive got to do one soon as part of my service but from what ive read seems a real pig

how hard would it be to move it to under the bonnet, like putting one in from a series 3 where the cartridge could be just spun off every year but dont know if the flow rate would be ok according to the micron capacity of the filter

are you able to remove the internal filter from the existing freelander and then leave the canistor in its place so the pipes etc dont have to be altered and then cut one in under the bonnet

has anyone else moved theres or can it simply not be moved

thanks again

gary
 
hi I would not even atempt it you will have to make sure all pipes are tight as there is a lot of presure there
 
The existing one is fairly easy to change. I use a long reach allen key and just make sure you line the cover up correctly.
 
The existing one is fairly easy to change. I use a long reach allen key and just make sure you line the cover up correctly.


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Anyway, as for the fuel filter, it's an interesting idea trying to move it but I modified my housing by cutting a slot right along the length of the platic housing. I then drilled a series of holes in the plastic (where the filter housing joins the pump housing) just wide enough to get a jubilee clip in. Now it's dead easy to at least get the filter in & out of the housing though it's still a pain to access the whole carrier & remove it.
 
It's not that difficult, it's just a little awkward to get to so may take some moving around and climbing on top of the engine
 
Once you have done it, you will not think twice about doing it again - its easy when you know the way it fits in.
 
hi

thanks so much guys, i use to be a gas/oil boiler engineer and use to deal with filters etc and just thought it may be easier to move it to save taking the wheel off and inner plastic wheel arch.

Plus my mobility isnt good anymore and just trying to make things easier for myself and just thought of putting it under the bonnet

however i think by the sounds of it it may be better to leave it where it is as i dont want to put myself in a heap of crap and causing issues like air leaks etc.

do they need changing every year

im going to attempt it in a couple of months time when i do a full service.

ive had a look in my service book that came with the car and its got A & B and been trying to look on the internet to see what it covers under these letters.

As i was going to print one out to i can then keep it in a file, then fill out the service book myself and just list what ive done and keep the receipts.

like a nutcase i went into a main land rover garage and they want just under £700 for a full service

thanks as always guys,

gary
 
Landrover say change it every 60,000 miles but that's far too long. I do mine at around 20,000 miles.
 
Hi theres a good thread on here by AllanI Re changing td4 fuel filter(later type) with some piccys it was a big help when i did mine :)
 
thanks so much guys

do you happen to have a link for the pics please, sorry being such a numb nuts but cannot find it :doh::doh:

thanks for the recommended mileage to change the filter i think i will only do about 2,500 miles per year if that.

dont know why still cannot find a service check list sheet for the A & B services, i know its cheeky but has anyone happen to have on file please ie, word or pdf so i can print some out please.

i really do appreciate the help

gary
 
The worst thing about it is locating the screw that holds the filter/pump housing in place. Once you know where it is though, and work out how the housing slots back into place you'll be OK. It can indeed involve climbing on the engine or a stepstool in front of the car to reach.

I only do about 7K miles a year, but I do mine annually. It's only about £8 for the filter, and really is only a 15 minute job once you know how to do it.
 
hi guys. I see no one has written anything for a while. I see that not a single person has my problem as I did my homework and checked all over the net but with no luck. So here goes... I did whatever is necessary to get the filter housing out of the car but I find it rather difficult to take the filter out of it. I struggled for 1-2 hours and then I figured that maybe someone had a similar issue but google said nothing on the subject. So could you please tell me if there is some particular way to take the filter out? Thanx
 
If you are talking about the one behind the plastic panel of rear offside wheel arch I'm 90% sure that filter and housing is a complete unit that has to be changed in total.
 
just done this kenny and i can see why u r struggling. someone previous to me had put a slice line along the plastic casing of the filter and this is a very good idea. there a tight fit at best so after a few years of having crap thrown at it, it quite easily becomes seized in place. what i would also recommend is taking the whole assembly onto the floor or worktop and use a blunt piece of wood and a hammer to knock it out!
 
what i would also recommend is taking the whole assembly onto the floor or worktop and use a blunt piece of wood and a hammer to knock it out!

That`s the issue I am having. You suggested to use something to hummer it to loose it up but where do you think would be appropriate to hummer `cause the canister inside is very soft as I found out the hard way (just a few hours ago. It`s a big mess down in tha garage) and if you hummer on the bolt on the under side it would buckle in 2-3 blows tops. I am in a real pickle here:(. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
 
u could always put a slice down the side of the filter housing. mine had one and i levered it open a bit then smacked it from below with a blunt piece of wood. it moved a bit then i hit it more. after about an inch in movement i pushed it more with my thumbs then grabbed it from the top and twisted it whilst pulling outwards. if u popped the filter then its gone so what ever u do it needs getting out!!
 
I`ll try that tomorrow. Hopefully it would solve my problem. Just out of curiosity what is the bolt on the bottom side of the housing for? Is it just for fuel draining or is it for retaining the top part with the orifices in place ?
 
For draining... Ok. Actually I dont know how it looked originally as mine was replaced (probably by the previous owner or by some rotten mechanic ) with a steel bolt and the black plastic around was cut out very roughly for no apparent reason to me. Anyway I think we are talking about the same item. I have just one more question. Do you happen to know where i could buy a replacement of the two-cylinder black plastic housing as I am new to the Landy`s world and I am unaware of lots of things? Or you could direct me to someone who has that info.
 
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