Oh bugger - just found out how much the ccu does.......... Includes alarm and immobiliser functions.... As well as very complex routines for the door glass etc. it will only operate a speeds less than 5 mph!

So replacing it would require reprogramming... Best look at that wiper motor first due to costs..
 
Taking out the wiper fuse would have stopped any wrong signals from it so pretty much ruling it out
The worrying part is the tailgate opening by itself ..which has been covered before on here ..on my mobile so hard to search ..think it was the handle switch or springs.
 
ZDomZ said:
Fuse 30 only gives the motor power not all of the switches etc
Click to expand...

Have I pulled the wrong fuse then, but with the rear wiper not working once it was removed I assumed it was the correct one?

Also I'd like to thank everyone for helping us on this matter so far, its very much appreciated.
 
Ahh after reading that post it all makes sense....

Replacement ccu is needed as the window and door problems all started after the lemonade incident. :gulp:

Don't think that is gonna be cheap.

This may involve having to have your trousers pulled down by your local stealer....... Unless the nano com/ black box or what ever the aftermarket LR diagnostic boxes are called are able to program a ccu.

Although in the past on other makes of vehicle I have swapped the locking ecu and the coded key chips from one car to another.
 
Think I've got good news for you!!!!!

As far as I have found out so far the immobiliser function is programmed into a different CU the CCU only receives signals and forwards them onwards to all of the other control units in the vehicle. It appears that the CCU may be the only CU that doesn't need programming.

It seems that if you buy a CCU of eBay or where ever as long as the number match it should plug straight in and work correctly. :cool:
 
These are the numbers on my CCU, do I just need to make sure its a YWC000030.
acf59237bc74242ae28568967b407375_zps2e65c269.jpg


The electronic internals of my CCU
8b06d412da12430d155427721ccc092e_zps9d360bd2.jpg
 
I am struggling to get a definitive answer on the programming -some sources say yes some say no!

That part number is available on eBay or other landy suppliers also with the information of superseded part numbers.

Serial Number:
YWC500211

Options: Dimensions:
8cm x 15.5cm x 27.5cm

Linked Parts:
YWC000030, YWC000031, YWC000492, YWC000493, YWC500210

Superceded Product Codes:
YWC000030 YWC000031 YWC000492 YWC000493 YWC500210

Should give more choice.
 
You need to program the six last digits from your VIN to the CCU. With EDC system you also need to sync EDC ECU with CCU.
 
JRNORWAY said:
You need to program the six last digits from your VIN to the CCU. With EDC system you also need to sync EDC ECU with CCU.
Click to expand...

I thought someone with a bit more knowledge would be along to give us a pointer:)

Is this all years? What diagnostics are capable of doing this?
 
See as I can nolonger open the rear tailgate with the engine runing or not, I've taken the fuse box out of the car again, split the casing it in two to remove the circuit boards just incase I've missed anything and I can see some traces of lemonade on the rear part of the casing on the inside, so I'm wondering if lemonade has actually got into the inside of the fuse board circuitry as its made up of three layers. I'm going to look on fleabay for another fuse board to rule it out. Also cleaned the plugs/connections that plug into the fuse box and CCU again just to make double certain. Then it looks like we'll be going to Land Rover to see if they can sort it with a new CCU.
 
Right more news.

My neighbour repairs vintage radios for a hobby and gave me some different electrical contact/switch cleaner which I used to clean the plugs/contacts that plug into the fuse box and CCU. My neighbour also had a good look at the fuse box circuit board and apart from F4 fuse contact looking burnt but still serviceable we both agreed that there was no lemonade ingress into the circuits. We also had another look at the CCU circuit board which at first look fine/dry, but on the side of the board which you only see soldered contacts, between two terminals where one of the plugs would plug into (the largest one of the three), under certain light you could see a very very tinny amount of lemonade which was sticky. So I got a cotton wool bud and a small artist brush and cleaned between the soldered joints. We gave it another inspection and agreed we could do no more so put the circuit board back into the casing and reassembled it all back into the Freelander. Battery reconnected, rear window recalibrated, central looking recalibrated, locked all doors and waited for the alarm to arm its self, then unlocked the doors by double click on the fob, went to tailgate and it opened as it should without the engine running, so the Freelander is back to normal with a rear tailgate operating as they should.

Hopefully I've got rid of the offending lemonade that Guitarjon forgot to mention to me that had spilt over the dash thus coursing this problem.:mad:

I'd like to say a BIG THANK YOU to all those who have helped me sort it out and get to the root of the problem:)

Thank you.
 
ZDomZ said:
Not as glad as me - the fault had got right into my head an I couldn't let it go......

:D
Click to expand...

Yep same here it had started to drive me made once I'd read the previous owners postings and the thought of another £400 bill was not going down lightly, already spent over £1,500 on faults it had, but hopefully when I've finished with it, I will be able to say ' Its a good un'.

Thanks again for your help.

PS just checked the tailgate again and it still opens as it should, yippee :D
 
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