D

daisonn

New Member
I have a P38 with suspension problem. Recently the suspension started to take some time to lift about 15 minutes and when I went to garage; two bags were replaced; pump was replaced; sensors were replaced as well as the valve blocks. My problem now is every overnight parking the suspension goes all way down and takes 10min to lift in the morning, Yesterday I removed battery after raising it to max and after three hours the rear had gone down but front remained up how do i solve this problem? Its not showing any errors on machine..
 
Last edited:
10 minutes to lift = worn compressor or leak in the storage tank or valve block....

Dropping one end = worn bags, or leaky valve block or pipes....the rears have been known to get melted by a leaking exhaust...
 
daisonn said:
I have a P38 with suspension problem. Recently the suspension started to take some time to lift about 15 minutes and when I went to garage; two bags were replaced; pump was replaced; sensors were replaced as well as the valve blocks. My problem now is every overnight parking the suspension goes all way down and takes 10min to lift in the morning, Yesterday I removed battery after raising it to max and after three hours the rear had gone down but front remained up how do i solve this problem? Its not showing any errors on machine..
Click to expand...

Two bags were replaced, which 2? For sure if 2 needed replacing (bet they were the fronts) the other 2 will need doing, so I expect they are leaking.
You solve it by finding the leaks, or just replace the old air bags as they have a life of 7/8 years 80K miles.:)
 
Saint.V8 I am checking the leak in storage tank the Valve block is not leaking and compressor was replaced 3 months ago. I will also check the bags coz I noticed an exhaust leak yesterday. Thanks
 
daisonn said:
Saint.V8 I am checking the leak in storage tank the Valve block is not leaking and compressor was replaced 3 months ago. I will also check the bags coz I noticed an exhaust leak yesterday. Thanks
Click to expand...
Exhaust leaks can melt the airlines.
 
daisonn said:
the two that were replaced are rear, if there is no leak will this problem be there?
Click to expand...

Then look for leaks in the airlines caused by an exhaust blow and for leaks where the pipes enter the airbags using soapy water.
 
how do I fix leak on the valve block? If I put soapy water there is bubbles on one of the valves do I have to replace the whole block?
 
O ring kits for valve block £10-£15 on flea bay. Although compressor is only 3 months old you should still check it. If its been working hard because of a leak in the system then it could well have worn the piston seal. Again you can get rebuild kits.
 
daisonn said:
how do I fix leak on the valve block? If I put soapy water there is bubbles on one of the valves do I have to replace the whole block?
Click to expand...
You can get a Valve block overhaul kit from SymliseP38 on Ebay, don't forget the diaphragm. When you say bubbles on one of the valves, do you mean the coil housing that operates the valve? Unusual fault.
Check that the valve block is not full of white powder from the desiccant breaking up in the air dryer.:)
 
daisonn said:
how do I fix leak on the valve block? If I put soapy water there is bubbles on one of the valves do I have to replace the whole block?
Click to expand...

Not having a dig but about a month ago you were certain that you didn't have a leak from your valve block. Before you start stripping it down have you done anything that might have caused it? Just a thought trying to save you work.

Isn't about time you stuck a location in your details? I can't be the only one with spares in my garage that could be used to prove faults before you spend money. Compressor, valve block, driver pack, fuse box etc.
 
My problem seems to have worsened, I tried rebuilding the valve block and the car worked fine for some time now over the holidays, as I was driving the car indicated AES fault and the Slow down 55km/h message with all the suspension lights on.. I drove slowly (it was tough) to get home as all the suspension had gone down... I tried next day to start car and same faults came on and this time pump was inactive... What do I need to replace or get fixed here?

Also note if there are parts I can get what are the options I have ~ I am in Africa but can get someone to get them for me
 
daisonn said:
My problem seems to have worsened, I tried rebuilding the valve block and the car worked fine for some time now over the holidays, as I was driving the car indicated AES fault and the Slow down 55km/h message with all the suspension lights on.. I drove slowly (it was tough) to get home as all the suspension had gone down... I tried next day to start car and same faults came on and this time pump was inactive... What do I need to replace or get fixed here?

Also note if there are parts I can get what are the options I have ~ I am in Africa but can get someone to get them for me
Click to expand...
Do you have the Diagnostic Software and Cable as this will no doubt show you a fault code....

Can be had cheaply from Datatek, I think this is the next thing to try.
 
Other than the actual position where the pipe for each corner goes in there are only two places on each valve block corner solenoid that can cause air to be lost causing a bag to deflate. One is the smaller of the two O rings at the base of the valve that sits on the block face, the other is the actual valve in the end of the solenoid shaft. All the other O rings in each valve can only leak when air is being supplied to that corner. Do the checks for compressor function diaphragm valve serviceability as outline in my "HOW TO" at the top of this page.
 
Saint.V8 said:
Do you have the Diagnostic Software and Cable as this will no doubt show you a fault code....

Can be had cheaply from Datatek, I think this is the next thing to try.
Click to expand...

I do not have the software but will check with a colleague and see the fault codes ~ Thanks
 
wammers said:
Other than the actual position where the pipe for each corner goes in there are only two places on each valve block corner solenoid that can cause air to be lost causing a bag to deflate. One is the smaller of the two O rings at the base of the valve that sits on the block face, the other is the actual valve in the end of the solenoid shaft. All the other O rings in each valve can only leak when air is being supplied to that corner. Do the checks for compressor function diaphragm valve serviceability as outline in my "HOW TO" at the top of this page.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information will also refer to the outline
 
I thought he said the valve block was replaced at the start. Presumably not a new one?
 
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