doz

doz

Active Member
Right something strange going on with the bouncy bits on the motor. I've noticed if I leave the car for say an hour when I come back it always has to lift it's self back up to normal ride height. It does it instantly and seems to do front and back the same amount (ish). Yet if I put the car in say high mode and then open the door then switch the engine off it will keep that height for hours. I did it the other day when I was changing the oil and trans fluid. One thing I've also noticed when I switch the engine off if I have the bonnet up I can hear the solenoids in the valve block clicking away for sometime. when I get in the car in the morning the EAS switch lights up all four levels then when I start the engine it says I'm at access height then raises very quickly to normal height. Light in the instrument cluster goes out straight away as well. Now I maybe describing normal operation of the system but having not had one before I don't know.
 
You have a tiny leak somewhere. Valve block clicking when you switch off is normal. 15 mm drop in 24 hrs is acceptable according to Land rover. Drier breaks up over time causing white crusty deposits on solenoid seals. This can make them weep a little.
 
doz said:
Ok cheers for that. I'll do a seal service then. Is this all the seals I'd need?

P38 Range Rover EAS Air Compressor Piston Seal Kit & O Ring Kit | eBay
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If the solenoid seals are dirty they just need carefully cleaning you cannot get new ones as separate items. If car jumps up straight away it would suggest pressure side is healthy. No need for piston seal and cylinder at this stage. You can get O'rings for less than a tenner on eBay, look around. If you decide to take a look inside at solenoids then you may as well replace O'rings at same time. If you have crusty deposits drier will need replacing. But do a soapy water check on bags and lines also before you get into valve blocks it may just be a weeping pipe joint.
 
Cheers fella. I was going to buy like a full set and then just do a full swap so I know I'm starting from a clean sheet. Also at some point I thought I may well need a piston kit. Noticed it doesn't have the diaphragm. I'll keep looking for leaks in the mean time. If I have a leak on one air bag will that cause all 4 to come down over a period of time?
 
doz said:
Cheers fella. I was going to buy like a full set and then just do a full swap so I know I'm starting from a clean sheet. Also at some point I thought I may well need a piston kit. Noticed it doesn't have the diaphragm. I'll keep looking for leaks in the mean time. If I have a leak on one air bag will that cause all 4 to come down over a period of time?
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Yes, because even when parked overnight, every six hours the EAS wakes up and self levels for 20 seconds. That means if one corner has dropped because of a slight leak, it will drop all the others to match it.
 
Ah right. I see where pulling the delay relay fits in now. Maybe an idea to do that first. If I come out to a drunk Rangie then I'll at least point me to the dodgy air bag
 
doz said:
Ah right. I see where pulling the delay relay fits in now. Maybe an idea to do that first. If I come out to a drunk Rangie then I'll at least point me to the dodgy air bag
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It will. :)
 
Interesting post. Mine stops any EAS activity when any door is open and resumes when all doors are closed. I assumed this was by design for safety?

It also drops to access height once the engine is switched off - unless you open the door and then switch off. Then it waits for around a minute until you have closed the door and then lowers. I guessed that this was something configured in software? (Other things like audible warning and hazard flash when arming/disarming alarm have been 'tweaked' off too :rolleyes:)

I'm not certain, but I think there's also been a couple of instances where there's been a message displaying at switch-off and EAS doesn't lower for a time? E.g. Sunroof open or low screen wash. I wondered if perhaps this was something to do with priority of messaging via the communications bus inhibiting another instruction?
 
Rob4x40 said:
Interesting post. Mine stops any EAS activity when any door is open and resumes when all doors are closed. I assumed this was by design for safety?

It also drops to access height once the engine is switched off - unless you open the door and then switch off. Then it waits for around a minute until you have closed the door and then lowers. I guessed that this was something configured in software? (Other things like audible warning and hazard flash when arming/disarming alarm have been 'tweaked' off too :rolleyes:)

I'm not certain, but I think there's also been a couple of instances where there's been a message displaying at switch-off and EAS doesn't lower for a time? E.g. Sunroof open or low screen wash. I wondered if perhaps this was something to do with priority of messaging via the communications bus inhibiting another instruction?
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It won't drop or rise with doors open in case they foul something. The self levelling when you get out of the car and shut the doors is to do with load. If you have had five people on board the airbags will have more pressure in them than when running light, to maintain selected height with the load. When the car is unloaded if the self level did not happen the car would rise above the selected height. So it returns all the sensors to normal for the selected height by exhausting air.
 
wammers said:
It won't drop or rise with doors open in case they foul something. The self levelling when you get out of the car and shut the doors is to do with load. If you have had five people on board the airbags will have more pressure in them than when running light, to maintain selected height with the load. When the car is unloaded if the self level did not happen the car would rise above the selected height. So it returns all the sensors to normal for the selected height by exhausting air.
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Mine definitely seems to go back to access mode. Once it settles (after a few seconds), if you get back in and turn on ignition the access mode lamp is lit. If you start engine it also stays there unless you either press the EAS 'up' button or select a gear briefly - at which point it returns to standard height. If you have it set for high ground clearance however it stays there when you get out, close doors etc and will still be there next morning!
 
Rob4x40 said:
Mine definitely seems to go back to access mode. Once it settles (after a few seconds), if you get back in and turn on ignition the access mode lamp is lit. If you start engine it also stays there unless you either press the EAS 'up' button or select a gear briefly - at which point it returns to standard height. If you have it set for high ground clearance however it stays there when you get out, close doors etc and will still be there next morning!
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Shouldn't be doing that. You may have a sensor problem. Or height selector switch problem. Take the small panel off left side of passenger footwell. You will see two white multi connectors check them for dampness and corrosion. The large one is the interface from selector switch to ECU. See what that does for you.
 
wammers said:
Shouldn't be doing that. You may have a sensor problem. Or height selector switch problem. Take the small panel off left side of passenger footwell. You will see two white multi connectors check them for dampness and corrosion. The large one is the interface from selector switch to ECU. See what that does for you.
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I'm with the Wammer on that, the system won't return to access unless you tell it to, if it drops that far, there is most likely an issue.....as Wammers says, sensor or more than likely a leak!
 
Hrrm! Sounds like I might have the same issue as Doz perhaps? No faults show on the EAS so wrongly assumed it was by design rather than sensor etc. I will check the items described, but odd that it drops to access level (no further) and doesn't drop from high - similar to what Doz described. Oh well, another job on the list! :D
 
Rob4x40 said:
Hrrm! Sounds like I might have the same issue as Doz perhaps? No faults show on the EAS so wrongly assumed it was by design rather than sensor etc. I will check the items described, but odd that it drops to access level (no further) and doesn't drop from high - similar to what Doz described. Oh well, another job on the list! :D
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The Airbag is designed to fold over itself as it collapses...

When in High/Extended the Airbag is fairlyunfurled, when in Standard there is a roll, if the split is at the point it rolls in Standard, it will open up more and the leak will be more evident!
 
Saint.V8 said:
The Airbag is designed to fold over itself as it collapses...

When in High/Extended the Airbag is fairlyunfurled, when in Standard there is a roll, if the split is at the point it rolls in Standard, it will open up more and the leak will be more evident!
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Yep, the leaks open and close as the fold moves.
 
I have left the Rangie parked for the last 36 hours. I went out to have a look and found the car was no where near the bump stops. So I took measurements from wheel centre to arch and then started the car and it raised it's self 10mm approx. So I'm guessing that fits in with what Land Rover quote over a 24 hour period. So with my nanocom plugged in I checked all levels at the wheel arches on all settings and also so how close the car was getting to the set points. It was within 2 everytime. So I played around with the system taking readings at the set levels and I was with 10mm of the readings quoted on this site. So then I de-pressurised the system and let the pump do it's bit. TBH it was back up to standard height quite quickly. Once I let the system settle down again. I checked how often the pump ran. However I have nothing to compare this to so can't really say if it was excessive or not. However it was very warm to the touch and was cutting in and out so not just running full time. So all I can think is I have a very very small leak or I'm confusing the self levelling thing it does when switched off with a fault. So for now I guess the best thing to do is re-seal the spare valve block I've got and sit it on the shelf in case it all goes Pete Tong. Cheers for all your help guys. If there's anybody in the Southampton area who's willing to put there P38 side by side with mine so we can compare how the pumps run and pump up times I'd be much obliged. If yours is a Thor or a chip fat burning variety I'll give it run through with the Nanocom in exchange for your time.
 
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