satchmolips · Jan 24, 2011

Defender 110 1990 200 Tdi

Just got it back from some pre MOT welding. Plate on bulkhead outrigger, two new body outriggers, and two bump stop brackets. Driving home and now appear to have a pulsating brake pedal wehn braking at reasonable speed which I didn't have before. Welder had back wheels off and one of front, but didn't do anything to brakes. Any ideas? How do I check which wheel may be causing it??

satchmolips · Jan 24, 2011

Should have added that over the summer have replaced all pads, drums, shoes and pistons and was all working fine. Been sttod for a few days, but often is an never had this before

Trewey · Jan 24, 2011

I'd check that the wheel nuts are tight first!

satchmolips · Jan 24, 2011

Checked those, they are fine.........

satchmolips · Jan 24, 2011

A thought. The brake pipe runs behind, not far from where the body outrigger was welded on. If it had boiled up the fluid may that cause it? I dint seem to have any worse braking though.

thought it was mine! · Jan 24, 2011

wats the tyre tread like had this on a old cav turned out to be duff tyre

satchmolips · Jan 24, 2011

thought it was mine! said:
wats the tyre tread like had this on a old cav turned out to be duff tyre

They are not bad, and no different to what they were 4 days ago when all was well.

Hamsterberg · Jan 24, 2011

Sounds like warped disc to me!!!

Karlos28 · Jan 24, 2011

+1 warped disc, or bent when the wheel was off?

satchmolips · Jan 24, 2011

Karlos28 said:
+1 warped disc, or bent when the wheel was off?

Checekd again, not bent when wheel was off (or dropped) as the inner disc guard is fine, which would have been crushed if dropped on then disc.
Any way of working out which wheel it may come from??

Station House · Jan 25, 2011

Puzzling.

Not sure that raising each wheel in turn (using axle stand!) and turning the wheel while a friend brakes would reveal.

Might be worth 'persuading' an MOT Testing station to run it on their rolling road to see if there is a noticeable difference on one wheel

Hamsterberg · Jan 25, 2011

Doesnt have to be dropped to warp a disc.. heat maybe ?

Bayden_uk · Jan 26, 2011

i have the same problem but you can only feel mine when slowing down. you feel it on the break pedel

satchmolips · Jan 27, 2011

Ah well, it still got through MOT thank goodness.

Will see how it goes and might shell out on some new discs

Station House · Jan 27, 2011

Great result on the dreaded MOT - good stuff!

satchmolips · Apr 27, 2011

Got round to fixing new front brake discs. Still got the pulsing and quite a shake on breaking from speed. Anyone any ideas??

Station House · Apr 27, 2011

Wheel balance? Doesn't explain why it was OK and then not 4 days later, but....

You say brakes are ok, but i noticed a comment re 'what if fluid had heated up when welding' - not sure it would cause but might be worth bleeding just in case

Only other thought - any chance different wheels could have gone back on different locations after the welding?

Fur Trapper · Apr 27, 2011

Station House said:
Wheel balance? Doesn't explain why it was OK and then not 4 days later, but....

You say brakes are ok, but i noticed a comment re 'what if fluid had heated up when welding' - not sure it would cause but might be worth bleeding just in case

Only other thought - any chance different wheels could have gone back on different locations after the welding?

Maybe steering out of wack. Working on the frame and the welding hammering etc might of gotten some dirt knocked off that was holding things snug

lynall · Apr 28, 2011

Where hes had the wheel off maybe some **** has got between the disc and hub face giving you runout hence the pulsing pedal.
Cure remove all wheels and discs he did and clean everything up.

Lynall

satchmolips · Apr 30, 2011

Well, had a good look today all round. When I took the nearside back wheel of the drum was loose as the srew holding it on was very loose. I think that may have explained things although when wheel was on and tight I would have expected it to have taken up any slack there? But it would explain why it was different after they guy had worked on it as he had the back wheels off
Only other things is when it went through MOT they advised some play in nearside front wheel bearing. I changed those with a kit about a month ago. However there is still some very slight play (12-6 o'clock) which exists even if I take all the slack out the bearings. Can't see any movement on the track rod bits. What else would cause that play?
Put it all back together and seems a lot better though.........

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