steve2286w
Well-Known Member
I think it would based on my experience of moving loads of rubble but would need lots better to find the cause of heavy steering
What have you checked so far
What have you checked so far
I have completely rebuilt it ftom the ground up. It is going beautiful, howevet I jave pretty severe artritis in my arms and back and want to just lighten it a bit. I have replaced springs all round. Two leaf parabolics front and rear. Kept the original shocks. Perhaps this might be a problem.
It is a 109 soft top.
Regards.
Chris..
It is a 109 soft top.
Regards.
Chris..
tottot
Well-Known Member
Keeping original type shocks would only affect the ride and then only if driven hard where the performance of GAS type shocks helps control the more flexible parabolic spring.
What tyres do you have ? What pressures ?
Did you renew the steering relay in the rebuild ? If you did was it's oil level checked ?
What tyres do you have ? What pressures ?
Did you renew the steering relay in the rebuild ? If you did was it's oil level checked ?
Short answer is "no". The rear axle sits under the centre of the load and the front axle is way forward. The weight on the front axle hardly changes at all with load. The reccomended spring rates and TPs give the game away. Even if it did make a differnce the lighter steering would be horrible as it would be caused by overhung rear wieght and make it very hard work to keep in a straight line. I drive an ex-mil LWB with a camper conversion, STD steering and a very heavy Perkins sat over the front axle. I do around 3k miles are year and have no problems - BUT parking is planned and everything is greased and oiled every couple of months. I'm 65 hand have slightly stiff hands but I find the Series steering very light once its moving.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
I removed Steering damper on mine when MOT man said steering was a bit stiff
Other options loosen steering box and reduce swivel pre load but this might come with more wandering
Other options loosen steering box and reduce swivel pre load but this might come with more wandering
Thanks for all that. It is not so much that the steering is heavy as after 15 years I am well used to it, it is just that at 72 my arms are not as good as they used to be and anything that would lighten it would help. I want to keep it as original as possible.
Very best regards.
Chris.
Very best regards.
Chris.
The solution could be the Heystee power steering, around £1k but fully removable with no mods - it all bolts to existing points. Gets good reviews, the only sticking point is price, but it looks well engineered and you can remove it and sell it separately. My own exprience is that the work I've done to reduce brake pedal pressure has been more help in everyday driving than the steering.
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/parts/pas/pas.htm
Ask Santa?
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/parts/pas/pas.htm
Ask Santa?
Put the servo off an early 90/110 - this is a 9" unit not 8" as is std. You have to make and adaptor plate and swap rod ends, but it goes on with no bodywork mods. Drops pedal pressure about 20%. The 9" servo is actually cheaper than the 8" and the BP ones come with a threaded rod so its easier to swap parts. I also fitted Borg & Beck shoes, I did a lot of research and these are a lot softer and better friction, follow the "my brakes are cr@p" thread as the OP is about to fit them and we we see if they get the same improvement, so wait till then. I also fitted braided brake lines, honed the cylinders/ and new seal and master cylinder. Replaced worn adjusters too and all the hub seal and lands. I think they now work as well as any drum set up could and its made driving much nicer and more relaxing.
On the steering front I greased all teh rod ends, topped the relay up and shimmed the steering box (in-situe), the shimming took at least an inch of play out, probably closer to 1 1/2" which also makes keeping a striaght line a lot easier.. Its been a busy lock-down but with no work its been a good time to do all these jobs.
On the steering front I greased all teh rod ends, topped the relay up and shimmed the steering box (in-situe), the shimming took at least an inch of play out, probably closer to 1 1/2" which also makes keeping a striaght line a lot easier.. Its been a busy lock-down but with no work its been a good time to do all these jobs.
