This sort of symptom was quite common on Jap cars in OZ , quick fix was putting a relay on the solenoid activation wire near starter , which overcame the voltage drop due to old wiring , switch contacts and with autos , inhibitor switch as well .
 
I've got the starter out now, so i've got 2 starters now is there any tests i can do while there out of the car.
 
Right! i've tested both starters off the vehicle one on the 12v terminal and one starter switch terminal. The gear shot forward on the 12v,then shot forward and spun on the ss terminal.So they are both working correctly aren't they?
 
where's all the experts????

What should i change/try next? i was going to order a new ignition switch to start with since cleaning it didn't work.
 
If both starters check out OK , ie with jump leads on main feed and strter body , when a feed is supplied to solenoid activation terminal then dog is thrown forward and stays there revolving .

The jump lead test is not 100% certain , as its does not test torque load , just that you are getting it to motor under no load.
The next thing is to look for possible problem with the solenoid feed.
This should be done with measurement under loaded (with solenoid engaged) using clip on ammeter. If not possible then , it is good enough in most cases to just check for 12v . when key turned, try wiggling key about to see if poor connection in key unit . HTSH
 
tacr2man said:
If both starters check out OK , ie with jump leads on main feed and strter body , when a feed is supplied to solenoid activation terminal then dog is thrown forward and stays there revolving .

The jump lead test is not 100% certain , as its does not test torque load , just that you are getting it to motor under no load.
The next thing is to look for possible problem with the solenoid feed.
This should be done with measurement under loaded (with solenoid engaged) using clip on ammeter. If not possible then , it is good enough in most cases to just check for 12v . when key turned, try wiggling key about to see if poor connection in key unit . HTSH
Click to expand...

I'll give that a try.

When i did a search i saw on a one of Hippo's threads that when the starter is fitted, to run a wire from the battery to s/s connector. Would that tell me the starter switch was goosed
 
pardec said:
I'll give that a try.

When i did a search i saw on a one of Hippo's threads that when the starter is fitted, to run a wire from the battery to s/s connector. Would that tell me the starter switch was goosed
Click to expand...

That would suggest that there was a problem in that circuit , not that it was definitely the switch , as there should be a relay in that circuit , which would give the possibility of poor earth on relay , faulty relay , faulty connection on relay, or if auto faulty inhib switch , or connections , if not auto , some have bridging connector , check for good connection . HTSH
 
When the starter was fitted it didn't click in R,D,1,2 like it does in P or N so i presume the inhibitor switch on the top of the gearbox is ok
 
Check the earth strap from engine to gearbox.....

You may not have a good earth back to the battery. Quickest check is to put a jump lead from engine to negative terminal of the battery.
 
pardec said:
When the starter was fitted it didn't click in R,D,1,2 like it does in P or N so i presume the inhibitor switch on the top of the gearbox is ok
Click to expand...

That sounds like inhib is OK , not sure if if inhib is on ign sw side of of relay or starter side .
 
ZDomZ said:
Check the earth strap from engine to gearbox.....

You may not have a good earth back to the battery. Quickest check is to put a jump lead from engine to negative terminal of the battery.
Click to expand...

Where is that located?
 
Sorry I meant to say earth strap from engine or gearbox to the body..... Doh...

There should be a cable (could be braided) between the engine and the bodywork. Along with another cable from body to battery.

As I said previously if you connect a cable (jump lead) between the the battery earth terminal and to a good lump of metal on the engine. This will provide an additional path for the current to flow through and be a quick method of diagnosis.
 
Last edited:
I've got everything back together still the same:mad:

Tried earthing it with a jumper cable, no difference
Tried wiggling the key as turning and it caught a little

Looks like i'll order a new ignition switch now
 
Do you have a volt meter of multimeter? If so measure the voltage coming out of the fag lighter socket when the engine is running, and compare this to the battery voltage when the engine is running. Depending on which contact in the ignition switch has a high resistance (dodgy contact) you may be able to see a volt drop on the fag lighter, when comparing it to the battery.

Also listen to the starter with the bonnet up when someone else starts yer Freelander. Be careful.
 
Don't have a volt meter or multimeter, but i'd need to get it running first though

Have ordered a new switch, just waiting on delivery.If this doesn't work i won't know what to do next.
 
If you can get to it, you can touch a live to the exciter terminal (the small one) on the starter. This will bypass the ignition switch.

If you switch the ignition on first, so the dash lights are on, then touch the live to the starter it should fire up.

If you can't get to the starter terminal easily, make a fly lead up with a spade terminal on one end and bare wire the other.... Connect the spade to the starter and touch the other end on the live terminal of the battery.

And report back!
 
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